Category Archives: Nicaragua

La Cruz, Costa Rica

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Welcome to Costa Rica. Today crossed the border to reach the seventh country on this journey.

Enjoyed my time in Nicaragua, despite the shortest time of all countries we’ve traveled. Where we entered was more rugged and remote. Where we exited was much more touristy. Several beach resorts and a lot more English signs. At the Pali grocery store yesterday we even saw some tourists paying with US dollars. Prices of some hotels and similar were also quoted with both dollars and Cordoba.

We left before 7am, despite having a shorter ride. However, we expected the afternoon to be hot and also had a border to cross.

We had a cross wind starting out. Giant windmills told us this was a common phenomenon here.

There were several different wind parks of windmills, here was sign for one of them.

We came briefly along shores of Lake Nicaragua. We still had occasional trucks and buses, though after was passed some of the beach turnoffs and last towns, seemed like it was lighter crossing the actual border.

Sapoa was last little store before the border. We stopped here and I got rid of my last Nicaraguan coins.

After this we cycled last 5km to the border. Some trucks stopped on the Nicaraguan side, but a much longer line was waiting on the Costa Rican side. The procedures on crossing were simple, though we spent some time waiting in line:

  • Nicaraguan side: Paid one US dollar, got a slip. Got the passport stamped and paid two more US dollars.
  • Costa Rican side: Waiting in long line. Got to head and were told needed to fill out an immigration form. Filled out the form. Cut back in line and got things stamped.

There were quite a few people at the border. I got the sense that buses would take you to the border. You crossed by yourself and then found a different bus on the other side to continue your journey.

The booth on left was start of a several kilometer long line of trucks waiting at the border.

Not much further, we found small comedor and had lunch. Lunch was slightly more expensive than other Central American countries we’ve traveled.

Hard to have many impressions yet, but first impression was a lot of lush growth and hot steamy temperature on the 20km we cycled from the border to La Cruz. In La Cruz we checked out several hotels before finding a reasonable one not far from center of town. Over next few days will see if I can find a SIM card, get some money and otherwise travel through Costa Rica.

Rivas

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Theme for today was ride to Burger King to avoid the heat.

Had a nice relaxing rest day in Granada.

There is a chocolate factory which does tours and also has a nice all you can eat breakfast buffet.

Historic looking buildings, a nice open square with statues.

During the afternoon it was hot. Hot enough that we mostly relaxed in shade of the hostel. Also came to the conclusion that it would be best to try leaving early next morning to beat some of the heat as well as the Papagayo winds.

Set the alarm for 5am with plans to be on the road by 6am. Sometimes when we cycle we’ll have a rendezvous location so can travel independently and meet at that spot if not before. For today, previous blogs had suggested that the Burger King in Rivas was nicely air conditioned, so cycled with that in mind.

There was a gentle climb along side of a volcano before downhills to the main Pan American highway at 21km. It was still nice and cool until the junction. After this point we started getting cross winds, though nothing too bad.

These cows were starting to seek shade.

Windmill was turning.

However, overall was better than I had expected.

Stopped briefly at 42km at this bar and restaurant. I ordered a pepsi. They must have misunderstood that I was happy to drink it there since they poured it into a small plastic bag as if “to go”. However, I drunk the bag from a straw and relaxed in shade of their restaurant.

The road was moderately busy as we neared Rivas, though traffic generally allowed good room.

By 11:15am, my main goal had been reached. It was nice to get 70km all done in the morning and before it became very warm. Waited here until David arrived and then we found a hotel. This time our conditions included air conditioning and fortunately nice a cool.

General plan is to cross into Costa Rica tomorrow, hopefully again going early to avoid some of the heat and wind.

Granada

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It seemed like a good idea at the time and it turned out ok in the end. However, in-between there was a moment or two of “uh oh” and “that was stupid”.

However, best to start telling it from the beginning.

We expected a two-day ride to Lake Nicaragua. We’ve followed some blogs that have been detailed in noting locations of hotels. Both Masaya (155km) and Granada (170km) looked like nice places to stay. A hotel was listed in Sebaco (45km) but nothing after that – so good chance of a 110km gap between known hotels.

Not to worry, our plan was to get to at least Puertas Viejas (77km) or Las Maderas (99km) and then ask around, sleeping in tents if necessary.

I was out first, taking advantage of the morning cool temperatures. Passed a cigar factory and store. Climbed to 1050m at 9.5km and after that mostly down.

Statue at next town.

Near bottom of the hill, hammocks were for sale.

After this the land leveled out. However, also got a nice strong cross wind picking up.

This bike path looked inviting but was rather bumpy.

Without too much trouble, made it to Sebaco where I waited for David.

The road turned here and we had a nice tailwind for several kilometers. Notice the flag blowing our way.

Unfortunately, this didn’t last and it turned into more of a cross wind after that. Obnoxious because it was strong enough that trucks would pass, temporarily block the wind or send an extra blast. It took some extra effort to hold the bike straight and keep from wobbling off the road or into traffic.

We tried two places for lunch: first was too expensive, second didn’t really have lunch foods. After that settled for a third which was also expensive but looked best of the lot. The food wasn’t very filling and took a while before it was served.

However, only 22km to Puertas Viejas and we set off again.

Buses are getting more colorful.

Without too much trouble, we made it to Puertas Viejas. Nice comedor here and we were able to have a proper late lunch. Here we also asked about accommodations.

Nothing in Puertas Viejas. A local truck driver also told us there was also nothing in Las Maderas, though he knew a hotel 8km further (total of 30km from where we were).

An idea entered our minds…what if got a lift in that empty truck? Seemed like a good idea at the time and the truck driver was friendly and willing.

We waited until the driver and other passengers finished their meal.

However, before we knew it, there was a big rush to get the bikes loaded. Panniers off! Bikes up on the truck! Settle the bills! Oops, not enough change, so needed to pay that.

Very shortly later, this is the view we had from back of the truck.

We had gone just a few kilometers when I looked at the bags. Wait! Where was my camelbak? I normally have it on my back, but it wasn’t in the truck. Most likely it was still next to the table. In the rush to get ready, I had done all the other tasks but accidentally left it by the table.

We decided we’d continue our ride to the hotel, and then find a way to get back to the comedor again – hopefully it would still be there.

Truck stopped at San Benito. Actually 35km away not 30km. Now the problem was how to go back and retrieve the camelbak? David helped explain the situation and truck driver was involved in problem solving too. The driver called friends who might know numbers of women who worked at the comedor. Suddenly he spotted another friend filling gas.

Would they be willing to drive back, retrieve the camelbak? A plan was hatched and a price negotiated. David and the truck driver went with the friend, while I stayed back with the watching the bikes.

Long story short, 75 minutes later, they returned with camelbak safe and sound. Hooray! And a big relief. It was now almost dark. The hotel the driver knew, was actually closed but locals directed us to a place 2km away. It was getting dark so we went very slowly along the shoulder, watching the mirrors. Long day and glad everything turned out ok in the end. Next time try not to get so rushed.
Day Two
A shorter second day riding to Granada.

A big question for today was, “what would the wind do?” Nicaragua has winds known as the Papagayo Jet, which can be strong. Next few days were forecast at 30km to 50km from NNE. Mostly a cross wind, but a lot more obnoxious if also a head wind. Fortunately, enough vegetation today that we noticed wind, but not as strong as could have been (or as strong as winds in Mexico).

Above were buses at Tipitapa. We turned off the main road here. Stopped at supermarket (Pali) for some food before riding smaller roads.

These guys working along the way.

At Masaya, road junction between Managua and Granada.

Lunch in Masaya.

Nice road from there into Granada.

Sandinista monument in Granada.

Many old architectural buildings here in Granada. Also many small hotels and a lot of foreign tourists. Found a spot downtown and now have a chance to explore the city.

Esteli

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Hilly riding on a road slowly becoming busier have brought us to town of Esteli.

Nicaragua is a cleaner country than others I’ve cycled through. Even have seen these places to sort your trash and recyclables. We also see less trash along the roads as well. Today we also saw a road crew cleaning the road.

I didn’t realize I was on a cycle route, when I saw this sign announcing its end. Today we also saw one or two caution cyclists signs. Also see locals on bikes as well.

Not long after this sign, we had some good climbs again.

We passed this large facility for drying coffee. It seemed to be sorted into different small plots, perhaps owned by different people.

Also nearby was this building labeled “Centro Solar”.

Sign told us the web site is: grupofenix.org, listed as “sustainable development in Nicaragua”.

We came past the Taliban bar. The owner came out and was proudly explaining the name.

This comedor served a good lunch.

Later in the afternoon we came past tobacco fields and also some drying barns. You could smell the tobacco.

Nearby was this suspension bridge over a mostly dry river bed. Believe a lot more water here during the wet season.

These horses also nearby.

Not long after this stop, we had our longest climb of the day, 300m of climb. We had 1060m overall today.

Close to the top, we saw cactus again.

However, also irrigated fields.

The road into Esteli was busy but without too much difficulty we found our way to central park and hotel nearby. A local cyclist spotted us and invited us to a night-time ride this evening.

We didn’t attend the ride, but happened on it when walking in the park after dinner. It was fun to see the locals out for a ride.

They had a police pace car. Some with helmets, some without. Some with lights and some without. A total of perhaps 40 cyclists was nice to see out for a ride.

Ocotal, Nicaragua!

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Over the hills and into Nicaragua!

We entered Honduras climbing a hill and left it climbing one too. In between, there were a few hills. Overall, enjoyed time in Honduras with roads better than expected and friendly people.

As we left Danli, it was on edge of drizzle.

However, not so wet that clothes couldn’t be hung on the barbed wire to dry. Within a few kilometers it all dried up.

We continue to see election posters. This region seems to have more of the existing government (blue stars) and earlier west of Tegus, we had more of an opposition party (red stripes).

There was a cattle drive, complete with horses going on along the highway.

After 20km of slightly rolling hills we came to El Paraiso. El Pariaso bills itself as the coffee city and is last major settlement before the border.

An example of truck full of people.

After El Paraiso, the next 10km were up, sometimes steeply so.

Just before the border was a customary line of trucks. We spent our last small bills buying some lunch on the Honduras side. Exiting Honduras was very straightforward.

It took a little more time to get through the Nicaragua border. First stop was the “health check”. They looked through my passport, asked my age and then handed me a small slip of paper. Despite this warning nobody asked for a yellow fever certificate.

Next stop was immigration. We were told the fee was $12, USD. I tried to pay in Honduran, but they said they only accepted US $. When I pulled out a Honduran note, they signaled over one of the money changers, so I did go back and pull out a $20 bill. I gave this and took them a long time to eventually produce a receipt and change. Not five minutes after handing me $8 in change, the official then claimed he handed me $10 and I owed him another $2. Nope, that wasn’t going to fly and we told him so.

After this exchanging our remaining Honduran currency for Nicaraguan. Fortunately got a rate pretty close to international rate. Hooray, we were now done and could descend downwards into Nicaragua.

We started out with beautiful roads, lush vegetation and nice descent.

Signs now gave us distances to places in Nicaragua.

A little lower there was an agricultural check.

Town of Dipilto had this statue.

FSLN (Sandinistas) seem to be prominent here with several FSLN signs as well as red and black colors.

A poster for the current party.

Without much difficulty we made our way to Ocotol. The main road didn’t have many open businesses on it and we were most of way through town before finding a hotel. Otherwise nice ride and good to get into Nicaragua.