Three days cycling brought us close to sea level and town of Tejuantepec. Along the way some very hilly terrain to climb up and over and a finish in warm temperatures in the mid 30s (high 80s/low 90s F).
Day One, San Jose Gracia

Our climbing started on first day just after leaving the hotel. Here is a view looking back from almost top of the hill. After this we had a long descent and started to see many more cacti and different plants.

The next hotel was closer than 165km, but found it interesting to already find a notice out for one a long ways away.

A photo from part way down the descent, looking back up to where we came from. Road surfaces were reasonable and grades were rarely more than 5-6% so those who like zooming down hills would like Oaxaca.

As we descend, mosquito-borne diseases are more of an issue. Here was public notice about fighting dengue fever.

One of several villages we cycled past and through. Overall an arid region without much farming, though does have agave plants and a lot of mezcal factories.

We had lunch at restaurant “California”.

After lunch, a longer climb including this cow standing along the road.

A view looking up at the climb with cactus in front.

Hooray, made it to the top! Now time for the descent!

Watermelon is one of the crops grown here.

At last we spot the village we plan on staying.

Found the hotel in town. Through the night we could hear trucks as well as see their flashing lights.
Day Two, La Reforma
A lot of climbing today through beautiful landscapes.

Once again climbing started right away, though first 19km to El Camaron wasn’t extremely hilly.

Some large trees were source of these logs. Larger than any trees we’ve seen along the way.

After El Camaron, there was a 15km climb of 600m (2000ft). Not too hot so time to put the bike in low gear and slowly climb the hill. One thing I find interesting is road signs like “don’t drive tired” and place locations like “portillo nejapa” use the same black+white colors and fonts. Often it is obvious from the description but occasionally need to question, is that the name of a village or a cautionary note.

Hooray, our 15km climb was done and time for another descent.

Another nice little place for lunch. Today it was quesadillas with meat and cheese. They flatten the tortillas from dough with a press and cook everything over a wood fire.

After another hill (over 1300m of climb today or 4000+ft), this sign told us folks in the town spoke a native dialect and not Spanish.

Our destination of El Reforma had a public health wall about typhoid.

There was no hotel in this town, but locals let us camp on edge of the basketball court. It was noisy through the night with roosters, trucks and locals coming to sit next to the court and chat. Otherwise a nice camp. My thermarest mattress took much longer to deflate, so think we patched many but not all of the holes. Also unfortunately, rolled over onto my normal glasses so will wear prescription sunglasses instead.
Day Three, Tehuantepec
A easier ride today as we descended close to sea level. As we finished our ride it became both warmer and windier, giving an early indication of road ahead.

Another public health wall.

Hanging from a tree, looked a bit like a birds nest.

We didn’t stay at the hotel “isis”.

As it became warmer, the horses also took refuge under the trees.

Unfortunately, a lot of trash along the highways here, this next to a sign telling folks not to litter.

We’re on the flats now, but one can see hills in the background.

Overall arrived at a hotel by 2pm and turned on the air conditioning. Nice to complete this bit to the coast and time to plot out the next segments. The Mexican isthmus narrows here and there are a lot of wind farms, so expect both some heat and some wind.

Friday and my class has completed. My riding partner should arrive this evening and plan is to depart tomorrow headed south east.

The class was useful, both to give me a more structured concentration on the language and for feedback when I was using things correctly and incorrectly. It didn’t necessarily go further than what I learned in Spanish classes (mostly a number of years ago), but definitely feel like I caught back up. We will see how it goes now on the road.

We had two field trips this week, one to a cultural center in nearby San Agustin. This center had multiple purposes including hosting classes, displaying exhibits as well as supporting work from artists.

For example, the headline exhibit was this work. Essentially it took a brief text about changes as rural areas urbanize and then visualized it.

A more complete text above.

The idea of taking something from one medium and representing it in another was also used in a larger “felting” center they had where artists might send images and then art center workers turned this into felted work. It was interesting, though asked us not to share photographs so can’t do that here.

We got a tour of a paper factory where they showed and described the process.

Otherwise, I’ve wandered some through Oaxaca and gotten chance to visit cafes and restaurants.

These folks were working on protest signs and saw at least one or two marches while I was here.

Also music in several of the other evenings.

Wandering through Oaxaca also came across the bus from El Bicho Latino
Fellow travelers going from Patagonia to Alaska. However, have been on the road from 2005, so at a somewhat slower pace.

Looking forward to getting back on the road. The next 400km to Tapanatepec look to be challenging with a continuation of hill Oaxaca terrain, followed by a descent to sea level (i.e. hot) and through a region notorious for wind. There are a limited set of hotels so also anticipate some nights camping. From there climbing back into the hills and another 400km to Guatemala.

Today I got a chance to see sights around Oaxaca. I found a tour site on the Zocalo Plaza. They were offering two packages and I signed up for for 8 hours to visit:

• Monte Alban, archaelogical site
• Wood carvings, Arrazola
• Cuilapan, ex-monastery of Santiago Apostol
• Black pottery, Coyotepec

It was a nice trip and I was particularly impressed with Monte Alban.

Monte Alban sits several hundred meters above Oaxaca on mountain top. It was established by Zapotec’s around 500BC and occupied until about 750AD. It was a huge site with multiple temples and remains of buildings, fields and plazas.


Overall an interesting place to walk around. We had guided tour for an hour and then spent at least another hour wandering further ourselves.

After that to local artists area of wood carvings. Overall fairly elaborate.

Next generation of artists brushing up on their skills.

We had a nice buffet lunch and nearby restaurant including Oaxaca dishes such as seven types of mole.

The monastery and church was never quite completed, hence you see no roof on front section.

A key issue in this area are multiple fault lines which have caused earthquakes. A number of the columns had been rebuilt due to quakes and there was active reinforcing on that what remained.

Final stop was in Coyotepec where an artist performed a demonstration in matter of minutes on how he built a clay pot.

Drying and curing takes many days and gets done at particular dry times. So overall process might take a month, but he was able to show us quick creation of an initial clay pot.

Many of them for display and sale here as well.

Overall, tour was worthwhile and got a nice blend of tourist sites. The Monte Alban is high on my recommend list. The crafts places were interesting – though a chance to buy handicrafts, that I wasn’t in the market for. The monastery and church were also interesting.

Nice shorter ride today and the last third was even fairly flat!

Tamalazulapam was a nice little town. In the morning, I filled up on water and set off. The first 25km were generally uphill though with more gentle grades than yesterday. I’m still surprised at how many of these road side restaurants one passes and this morning even saw them used.

I stopped at small shop around 17km. The horse had just arrived with a load of wood. They had untied it and let it fall to ground on either side. After that the last 8km and I was at 2490m (8170ft). The road was occasionally rough both on climb and descent.

Signs for protest on recent ~20% gasoline price hikes (gasolinazo). The Morena political party is protesting these hikes recently announced as part of deregulation of energy industry and letting prices reach world market prices. Drop in value of the peso also doesn’t help since oil is priced in dollars.

Santa Domingo had a huge church and convent. After this point, the route also became noticeably flatter.

Nice to see the sign on entry to Nochixtlan. Found a hotel and then walked downtown to the plaza.

Many of these little shops around.

Local bike repair. I’ve seen quite a few locals on bicycles these past few days. Also noticing more internet cafes here than before. Otherwise relaxed in this small town. Now about 80km until Oaxaca where plan is to take my Spanish class next week.