Author Archives: mev

Aguadulce

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Today an easy ride on the big road.

Not the most scenic as the entire day was spent on shoulder of a four lane highway. However, it was relatively flat and winds only picked up part way through the morning. Starting in Santiago there was a fair amount of debris on the shoulder. Fortunately, once one gets further from town that usually clears up and except for bridges one can ride on shoulder.

This was mostly flat farming country. I saw sugar cane and also some large fields like these that had been cleared.

Machinery shop had a large mural suggesting rice, coffee and corn were also processed here.

Public information board on the highway, Panama without Dengue.

It was overcast early and not too warm by 11am. However, a good headwind had started to pick up. There was an inviting hotel just off the highway in Aguadulce and hence made a short day of it. Now also a chance to work out remaining distances from here to Panama City, most likely split it into three shorter days riding.

Santiago, Panama

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Short easy ride that brought me back to a larger town and the Pan American Highway.

Back on the road early. Two places with some hills today but overall flatter terrain. Somehow my bike odometer lost the profile file, but remember the distance and expect only around 300m of climb total.

I’ve noticed more pay phones in Panama. Not sure if I didn’t notice them in earlier countries or if there are still just more pay phones here. Panama uses the “Balboa” as its currency. However, one Balboa is exactly one dollar and both forms of currency can be used. In practice all the bills I’ve seen are US, but I’ve got a mix of Panamanian and US coins. Will need to be careful to get rid of the Panamanian ones before departing.

Something else I noticed today is a lot more honking. The road continued narrow, but had more traffic than yesterday. Again, not sure if the Panamanians do more honking of if this was a side effect of the road I was on.

One of the small places along the way. I stopped only once as distances were short. At 46km, I found my way into and then through town of Santiago. It was a bit of a mess to find, but by 48km, I was back to the Panamerican Highway and 1.5km later found a reasonable hotel that had been recommended in Lonely Planet.

There are signs here to respect bicycles, though still a busy road. Not far from here is a large mall and afternoon adventure will be to explore that mall.

Sona

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Great ride today on small back road alternative to the Pan American. Long, hot and hilly but easier than I anticipated.

After the first 23km, I took a small back road with great scenery and not much traffic.

I had seen several blogs recommend this, but also surprisingly several blogs where hilly terrain, heat and distance had caused them to hitch a ride (e.g. this one and this one and this one).

So I took a rest day to make sure I was well rested and started off right at sunrise. Overall, it turned out easier than I expected. Yes, it was 96km and yes it got warm and yes there were some hills. However, the road often provided some shade and it wasn’t as warm as some other days. Leaving early also gave me some time to slowly power up the hills, some of which approached 10% grades.

The road started with a ride back to the Pan American Highway. I had seen a small road on the maps and went to investigate, but that turned to rough unpaved road so took the standard road back. For the next 18km, there was still road construction. I had a mix of having the road to myself and staying in the right lanes with all the traffic. Overall not too difficult.

At 22km, I came through a control point where they wanted to see my passport. After that was the road junction shown above on the small road.

It was a great little road. Not very wide, but also not much traffic. At 35km, I stopped at this gas station for a drink. I wasn’t quite sure where I would find places to get snacks, so took opportunities I could (turned out 35km, 53km and 77km were all stop points for me).

After this the first of the short steep hills. My odometer registered over 12%. I was still relatively fresh, though later in the day I walked a 12% grade or two. After this point, the route left the coast.

There were one or two places with agricultural fields.

However, at least as much, this seemed to be “cowboy country”. These guys were rounding up cattle from within a pen.

I saw a horse or two tied up, this one near a bus stop.

At 77km was this small church and road junction. After 81km, there was more downhill than up – so became a bit easier at the end.

Most of the area along the way was fenced off. Sometimes the fence posts were composed of trees that were then pruned back into mostly post shapes.

It was around 3pm when I came into Sona. Nice hotel on the main street. Otherwise, good chance to relax after a tough – but not as difficult as I expected, ride through backroads of Panama.

Las Lajas

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Had a highway to myself today as I cycled on road under construction. Nice contrast from yesterday.

Breakfast in the hotel before getting on the road. Once again, trying to get some riding in before the heat, though the last 15km my odometer still recorded over 40C (104F). A little higher than air temperature as this is over pavement – but still quite warm.

After 3km of riding through the town of David, I was back on the Panamerican. The surface was smooth. There was curb and gutter so still narrow, but once I left town, there was a nice new smooth shoulder to ride.

At 23km, there was a sign directing all traffic to the left to make the left two lanes two-way traffic. I stayed right.

This gave me an entire smooth road to ride without any traffic. Occasionally, I would pass construction workers and occasionally there were barricades. However, for the most part, I was on a new smooth road all to myself. It was great cycling. Only once did I get myself into trouble – I came to a bridge and construction workers indicated the bridge was under construction and not open. Not to worry, I backtracked 500m and got back on the regular highway lanes.

At 43km, I stopped for a bite to eat. After this it definitely became warmer. It was also moderately hilly. No big hills but enough short steep hills to record 656m of climb for the day.

Another example of road construction along the way.

The last few kilometers before turnoff to Las Lajas, there was several kilometer long backup of vehicles. Not sure if there was road closures or other reasons, but I was still able to bypass it.

Turned to the right and found my way to nice little hotel. Has a restaurant and even a swimming pool. However, happiest that the room has air conditioning.

David, Panama

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Made it to Panama, eighth country on this trip.

Once again started early. First 18km to the border was on a reasonable though occasionally bumpy road. Once again, nice to have the cool morning air.

Many of the houses in Costa Rica have these boxes out front. Sometimes they will have an empty bottle or two or other debris. Always on a post out of the ground, but otherwise vary in construction. I assume these are garbage but not 100% sure.

I cycled past the Costa Rica immigration building. Asked some police and they directed me back to what I thought was a bus station. First step was to go across the street and pay $8 ($7 exit tax and $1 fee). Next had to fill out the exit form. Otherwise, was quick and easy to get my stamp to exit Costa Rica.

Next stop back to the Panama immigration building. This went even easier. They looked through my passport. Next took a photo and scanned my fingerprints. After that a stamp and I was ready to go. I had read a variety of things on the internet and was prepared to document my exit (plane ticket from Panama City back to US) and prepared otherwise answer questions – but it all went easier than expected.

The road in Panama started very nicely and gradually became worse as I neared David.

Initially it was a four lane concrete highway with a good asphalt shoulder.

About half way, the shoulder deteriorated and disappeared in many places. Hence, I was riding on the concrete. Unfortunately, the traffic also increased – though vehicles generally gave me room. The last 10km into David, the adjoining cement slabs had shifted and now there was often a 1cm (1/2″) sharp drop from one slab to the next. Bump, bump, bump. Not the best to ride but not much alternative.

We climbed slowly to 250m and after that a majority of the riding was downhill into David.

Saw some of these housing developments along the way. Signs are in Spanish, though wonder if they are directed to expat communities, as I know Panama is a popular destination.

There is a big festival in town: Feria de David, from the 16th to the 26th of March. Many of the streets were blocked off. I had made a hotel reservation via Expedia to make sure I had a room, though availability was low. Saw quite a few people on horseback including these riders.

Overall, nice to get into David and reach Panama. Plan is to cycle from here to Panama City and then fly from there to Colombia with a short intermission in Colorado in between. I bought the ticket a bit ago, and hence have some extra time I’ll spend either along the way or in Panama City when I arrive there. Given the warm afternoons, also nice if I can make some shorter (cool) morning rides.

Ciudad Neily

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Welcome to the jungle. As I’ve ridden east through Costa Rica, landscapes have gradually become more lush and green. Even in the dry season, the rivers flow under the bridge crossings. Seems like just off the road is a thicket of vegetation.

Forecast called for chance of showers and saw a thunderhead starting to build even in morning as I left. It pretty well stayed dry until after I arrived and even then only a few sprinkles.

The first two hours of the day are my favorite. Not only is it cooler, but there seem to be a lot more noises out in the vegetation. Squeaks, whistles, caws and other insect and animal sounds. Sometimes I listen twice to think, “is that squeak my bike?” but then realize it is some bird. On flat terrain, I will have covered 30km in those first two hours all before it gets very warm. After that still noises, but quieter. Also traffic starts to pick up.

Passed a number of these covered bus stops today and stopped for snack at 26km at one of them. There was a town at 32km and one at 60km and otherwise mostly rural areas. Parts of the road were newly done smooth asphalt and last 15km was a bit bumpier. It wasn’t wide, but traffic generally waited to pass.

A few palm groves, though not as large plantations as the other day. You can see the vegetation that climbs up on the trunks of these trees.

This guy was busy painting the roof blue and still had a ways to go.

At 60km I came to Rio Claro and made a stop here at the Pali to for a few things for a snack.

After this cycled the remaining 16km into town of Ciudad Neily. I am about 19km from the border and plan is to cross into Panama tomorrow.

Palmar Norte

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A longer ride mostly along the coast.

I was sweating before I started. Just carrying my bike and gear down two flights of stairs in the humid early morning air and my shirt started to get soaked. It wouldn’t really dry until after I finished the ride. Fortunately, it was warm but not extreme today.

First back to the main highway. Saw these types of housing along the way. A little more basic than some tourist accommodations so wonder if this was for workers along the palm oil plantations.

This factory I think was for palm oil.

The first 40km continued on a flat plain. As I got close to Dominical at 44km, the plain narrowed and there were some slight hills to climb. Nothing severe and overall only 636m (2086 feet) of climb for the entire day. I had actually passed most of Dominical before I realized it.

Continued past a number of places with signs in english selling real estate.

This was good example.

At 60km came to Uvita. This town had a nice village center with big supermarket and several hotels. I was getting warm and I was tempted to stay here. However a cold drink and a yogurt and some time in the shade and I was feeling cooled down. Fortunately, it really didn’t get much warmer in the afternoon than it had been by 11am.

Some nice ocean views. Most of the time, I couldn’t see the ocean, but I saw many signs for “ocean view” or “beach front” turnoffs as I passed.

This was a more typical road.

By mid-afternoon reached Palmar Norte. The Pan American Highway from San Jose joins here. Not sure if this will make the road busier or larger than it has been. Overall, a good ride as I’m slowly making my way southeast through Costa Rica.

Quepos

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Flat easy ride along the coast.

Downside of staying in middle of a beach resort town is music played most all night. I think it stopped just a bit before 5am when my alarm went off. Some breakfast items in the room and then on the road before 6am. Still some folks out around the town, but otherwise quiet cycling.

Got this view looking back into Jaco. From this point the road was mostly flat. Odometer recorded only 153m (500 feet) of climb all day. That meant overall the ride was quick and I was into Quepos by 11am.

Heard a lot of high pitched cicada sounds (or similar insects), particularly early in the ride.

The road passed multiple turnoffs to beaches. Presumably a small hotel or similar at these beach resorts. At 29km in Esterillos there were these fancy looking apartments. Also a small store to get a snack. After this started getting warmer though never very hot today.

Also started passing many palm oil plantations and at least one palm oil factory.

Floristeria Ericka had decorated by hanging fake icicles from the eaves.

Without too much difficulty found my way into Quepos. It was 2km off the main road and then a small town not far from the beach. There is a national park somewhat south of here that advertises wildlife tours. Otherwise had an expedia hotel reservation lined up, so not difficult to check in and finish an easy ride.

Jaco

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A ride from the twilight zone hotel to the beach resort with crocodiles in between.

It was quiet at hotel yesterday, I might have been one of the only guests. I walked back along the highway until I found a place to eat. They seem to be called “soda” here instead of “comedor”. Still a little pricier than I expected, so assume I am now in more of a tourist zone.

I was on the road before 6am today. That let me finish my ride before noon. It was hot and slightly humid on the last climb, but I avoided most of the heat. The road started over a hill before coming back along the beach. I saw several ships out in the ocean including this mostly empty container ship. Internet suggests that Puerto Caldera is one of the larger ports for Costa Rica.

After Puerto Caldera, turned inland for 15km on wide four lane highway with reasonable shoulder.

When I turned at 23km, there were already many signs for businesses in Jaco and some for resorts beyond.

Some wanted to sell you real estate and help you avoid being “gringo-sized”. Others were for hotels, adventure businesses and similar tourist attractions.

I had a small descent down to river at 34km. People standing on the bridge. What were they looking at?

Aha, crocodiles!

And more crocodiles. Perhaps a dozen in total.

After this a bit flatter for a while before climbing up over a few steep sharp hills. Last hill was only 200m, but was hottest and biggest hill for the day.

Descended and still many signs for businesses near Jaco.

Turned a little past this and into the tourist town. Nice central street with hotels and similar businesses. I had made a reservation in advance so was easy to find hotel and check in. Now have an easy afternoon to relax and otherwise be a tourist.

El Roble

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Back to riding by myself. We reached the point where David goes inland towards friends in Costa Rica and I continue down the coast headed towards Panama. I’ve enjoyed these past six weeks cycling together and have two to problem solve has made a lot of things easier. Will miss having him on the road.

The first 48km looked a bit like the photo above. The road was not particularly wide. It climbed and descended over short little hills. Traffic came in spurts. Sometimes a truck would pass along with 15-20 other vehicles following. At other spots, it might become quiet with no traffic at all.

Sometimes when traffic was coming both directions and we were climbing a slow hill – it was unpleasant. However, overall it wasn’t as bad as I suspected reading other blogs.

It also became warm today. Overnight at 23C and by mid-morning my bike computer was reading 37 or 38C. Nice to get out on the road earlier in such heat.

We stopped once near 22km. Had a can of fruit cocktail here. We’ll often drop by store to get breakfast foods and occasionally also carry things for underway. I had been a bit full at breakfast, so fruit cocktail came for my stop.

After this it was decidedly warm and by 39km, we were ready for another stop. The restaurant had table cloths. Never a good sign for an economical place. Had scrambled eggs here.

I believe this sign is a promotion to win a bicycle by renewing your phone service. Speaking of which, my phone internet seems to have stopped working earlier than expected. Will need to check on renewing some time. Otherwise a handy backup when wifi isn’t reliable.

At 48km we came to the junction in the road. I headed right and David continued straight.

A selfie for the road.

I cycled another 6km. Past an expensive all-inclusive Hilton resort and to a hotel that looks like it came from the twilight zone. However, price is reasonable and air conditioning appears to work. I’m expecting to encounter a blend of expensive/in-expensive hotels as I now travel along the more touristy Pacific Coast.