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Mendoza rest days

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2017-09-04 by mev2017-09-04

I have had a relaxing week in Mendoza. One day with some drizzle but otherwise comfortable if slightly cool temperatures.

In the middle of Mendoza is a large Plaza Independencia.

Two blocks up and over in each of four directions are four other smaller squares. On a map the layout would be a “5” on a dice.

There is a pedestrian mall with the requisite cafes and street performers.

Police ride bikes here to patrol the pedestrian mall, though there are signs prohibiting others from riding bicycles on the mall.

There was a small protest that came through one day.

I believe the cause includes stopping inflationary increases.

There are shops that sell package tours. I looked briefly at them though none of them seemed particularly exciting. Popular trips seem to include wine tours as well as “alta montana” to go high up into the mountains. There also appears to be horseback riding and rafting though I am not sure the rafting is currently going.

It is still the end of winter and looks like they are still skiing higher up in the mountains.

I brought my bike in for service. It was time to replace a worn chain as well as a cassette. Otherwise, the bike seems to be riding well. My plan is to fly to Colorado in a few days. It will be some long flights surrounding a short trip. On the way outbound, I have overnights in Santiago and Los Angeles. On the return, it will be an overnight in Miami and one in Lima, Peru.

Otherwise mostly relaxing and also started working further on a project to write out a Microsoft Word document describing the previous five long trips I took before this one. I mostly have detailed journals on a web site, but the idea is to remove some of the redundancy (we rode, it was long, it was hot, we stopped. Next day we rode,…) and focus on highlights of these trips. It is some work and will still require some careful editing, though I’ve got a little over 58,000 words written out and more still to finish.

Mendoza is the middle purple colored province on the map above. I’ve spent some time reading other journals to get an idea of the route and travels from here south.

The rough plan would be to continue on Ruta 40 along the east side of the Andes to Bariloche and then cross over to Puerto Montt and meet the TDA ride.

The elevation of this route is not particularly high, though it may get colder as I go further south. In addition, chances of rain seem to increase as well.

After returning from Colorado, I expect to have just over two months to get to Puerto Montt. That is roughly twice as much time as my typical pace has been these past months of cycling. As I’ve looked further, I’ve mulled a few possibilities:

  • It might just take me longer if I have a more relaxed pace or run into some weather delays or mechanical issues
  • There is a language school in Bariloche if I get there early, and perhaps an excuse to further brush up on my Spanish
  • It may be possible to cycle a little further south through the Argentinian side of Patagonia and then catch a bus or ferry back

All these alternatives essentially start out with a ride southbound from Mendoza and I can wait as that unfolds to see if I end up with any extra time and if so where I might spend it.

Otherwise, a nice and relaxing change of pace in Mendoza as I prepare for a flight back to Colorado and followed by a continuation of the trip southbound.

Posted in Argentina

Mendoza

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2017-08-28 by mev2017-08-28

Into the big city as I complete this stage of the ride. Mendoza is approximately 2/3 of the distance through South America and time for a short intermission including a flight back to the USA.

Today was a longer ride both in distance and time with a light headwind for most of the day.

The roadside hotel was nice and had good pizza place next door. The weather forecasts had said “warmer today”. While it started out warmer, by mid-morning overcast set in and it never really warmed up much further. The first 10km had a nice four lane highway.

These guys had fun arranging the melons.

Between the 10km and 100km mark, the road narrowed to two lanes and got steadily busier as I got closer to Mendoza. There were sections with deep ruts as shown in the photo. These were obnoxious as it was difficult to ride too close to the shoulder and instead I would need to ride in the ruts.

Fortunately, other sections were smoother.

At 31 kilometers I passed from San Juan province to Mendoza province. There was an agricultural check at this point where they checked vehicles, but waved me through without checks.

It was also a bit of a toll booth with cars being charged ~$2.

Shrines here included ones to San Expedito.

I also saw San Expedito on other signs not always associated with a shrine.

Of course, the other shrines were also still along the way. This one had collected a large amount of water containers.

Signs told one to check the water level before crossing.

Water level marker.

At 71km I stopped briefly in Jocoli, just as the store in the photo was open. By the time I finished, it was already closed.

The last bit of the ride brought me past the airport and into Mendoza.

Mendoza wasn’t too difficult to ride. The road widened to four lanes and once I got close, I was able to take the smaller city streets. I had booked a hotel on Expedia and once I figured out it was a reasonable place, then also booked some additional nights during my Mendoza stay. Nice to reach this larger city where the plan is to spend the next week before my flight to the US. A chance to both relax and get some more detailed plans for the remainder of South America.

Posted in Argentina

Media Agua

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2017-08-27 by mev2017-08-27

Lazy Sunday afternoon in Media Agua.

It is 170 kilometers from San Juan to Mendoza. The road is flat, mostly straight and without a paved shoulder. There is a moderate amount of traffic. In general, not the most exciting or scenic road but one where you do need to pay attention.

The distance was just a bit more than I wanted to ride in a day, particularly after 157km yesterday. The last known spot with a hotel was Media Agua at 55km, so I decided to split it into a shorter ride today and longer ride tomorrow. Since I had plenty of time, I took my time in getting ready and leaving this morning. It still was a quiet Sunday morning when I left.

After a few kilometers, I turned onto a four lane highway with a nice shoulder.

This lasted less than five kilometers before I came into a large road construction project. I went past the construction barriers. While in Bolivia they were working on Sunday, it was very quiet in Argentina as I worked my way through the road project.

Soon enough I was on the other side. This area is agricultural including this olive oil factory.

Quite a few vineyards along the way and a few wineries.

The sign says emergency habitations, though most of them seemed to have people living in them now. Also a good example where most places I passed had a water tank on the roof.

Otherwise, without much difficulty, I found myself in Media Agua. Next to the gas station is a restaurant as well as a roadside hotel. It was a lazy afternoon as I relaxed and anticipated a longer ride into Mendoza to follow. I will have a little over a week in Mendoza before flying to the US for a short intermission and chance to pick up bike tires and a few other supplies.

In the afternoon I saw Laura and Herbie. They also were planning on splitting the ride to Mendoza into two days, but expecting to camp a little further along the road. We will have left Salta on the same day two weeks ago and pretty much leapfrogged each other these past two weeks.

Posted in Argentina

San Juan

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2017-08-26 by mev2017-08-26


Longer ride that was mostly flat and without much wind.

Yesterday the weather forecast said 15-25km/h headwinds so was a good time for a rest day. Today was more favorable and my plan was to at least cycle 100km and then assess things. As it turns out, I cycled 157km all the way to San Juan.

A cool morning starting out and after 10 km I was back to Ruta 40 again. For the most part, followed a long shallow valley southbound.

There were radio towers such as this one at several spots along the way.

Also signs telling people to report animals on the loose.

I still see shrines but fewer Gauchito Gil shrines than further north. I might have only seen two or three today.

As I got closer, I saw several daily cyclists out for a ride. The last 20km near San Juan had even more local cyclists.

A lot of the route was parallel to an old abandoned railroad.

At 101km was this restaurant where I had a late lunch. This had been my original target and there were some abandoned houses I could have camped near in the area. However, it was still early so I continued.

In the distance you can see the largest uphill for the day. A 200 meter climb and then a descent much of the rest of the way to San Juan.

It became busier on the road as I neared the town. There were occasionally shoulders though these were inconsistent.

San Juan itself had nice tree-lined streets. I followed these into the center of the city.

At some point I found a pedestrian mall. I checked a hotel or two and found a reasonable place to stay nearby.

I am glad that I took a rest day yesterday since if there had been much headwind, not sure I would have made it the entire distance in one day – so I still would have been here this evening. Now close enough that it is time to sort out the Mendoza possibilities.

Posted in Argentina

San Jose de Jachal

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2017-08-24 by mev2017-08-24

Crossed over 30 degrees south latitude.

It didn’t necessarily look particularly exciting. However, since I started at 70 degrees North, this makes it 100 degrees of latitude crossed.

Had a great breakfast in the hotel with all four of us touring cyclists. It was cold, but fortunately no wind! I stopped to take a photo at the statue as well as put on mittens.

There was a low water crossing. There was a sign warning of such crossings for next 60 kilometers. Also numbers on the road starting around 190. It wasn’t until later that I realized that this meant 190 different small creek crossings in those 60 kilometers. Fortunately, I believe this was the only one with water, but in wetter season, one needs to be careful.

There was road construction. Mostly putting concrete in the low water crossings as well as some paving. Was able to stay on asphalt almost all the time.

Just an occasional diversion like this one where they were cleaning up from the construction work.

An example of one of those 190 small dry wash crossings.

Ernie and Laura came by. Good example of the long straight road that mostly went through this dry area.

At 74 kilometers a traffic circle and then a big change. I took the back road (491) to San Jose de Jachal. It was a great little road that went through a canyon and then climbed steeply up a view point.

The road was narrow and even went through a small tunnel.

At points the road was marked with a width of 4m (13ft) for the entire road. Not much traffic and a great cycle ride.

Came past this church on the other side.

The wind picked up the last 10km into town. It was a long but nice ride as I found the hotel in town. Walked to the town square. Most everything was closed, but the ice cream place was open. Will come back later and hopefully restaurants are open. From here a ~160km gap to the next town, so will look carefully at the weather forecast – particularly the wind in deciding when to cross.

Posted in Argentina

Guandacol

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2017-08-23 by mev2017-08-23

Today was supposed to be an easy day.

There were times I was cycling at 8 km/h (5mph) downhill that I had to remind myself. A strong headwind had kicked up and changed that equation.

There were some clouds but otherwise, nice weather starting out. Villa Union had several vineyards. I cycled back to Ruta 40 and then along a wide range of mountains with an open valley. The road had a gentle 1-2% climb.

At the 12 km point, Alex came past. I had stopped to take a photo of these rocks just as the sun was coming from under a cloud. I mentioned my plan to stop in Guandacol for an easy short day.

Very soon thereafter, the wind started picking up. It just kept getting stronger and the temperature dropped 5C (9F) within a short period. My guess is a front just happened to pass through.

I got to the high point, but here the cycling was at least as difficult as when I was climbing.

This photo on the descent asks for caution during flooding conditions. You can also see that the blue skies from before have been replaced with haze from all the sand/dust kicked up by the wind. There were a few lower water crossings, though only one had water.

I was happy to see the sign for Guandacol. You can see the flag blowing briskly in the wind coming from the direction we would head next. There was a gas station here and Alex had also decided to stop for the day. We cycled several kilometers further into the town itself and found a hotel for the day. Later in the afternoon Laura and Herbie also arrived at the same hotel, so back to four touring cyclists in the same town again.

Weather forecasts for tomorrow are for the wind from the other direction. I hope the forecast holds.

Posted in Argentina

Villa Union

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2017-08-22 by mev2017-08-22

Beautiful ride today as I climbed up and over a low ridge of mountains.

No longer as cold in the morning, so easier to depart at sunrise. The first 16km went slightly downhill and along the mountain range to Nonogasta.

Nice views of the sunlight starting on the hills.

At Nonogasta the road turned west for a 30km/1100m climb. There were one or two short sections of 8% climb but most was much more gradual.

Passed a turnoff for small town of Sanogasta.

Alex came cycling past.

Looks like a local mountain biker.

This truck was loaded with household supplies and very slowly driving down with speakers on advertising the wares for locals to come shop.

The shrines have become fancy with this one having a painting of Gauchito Gil.

Another more fancy shrine. Somehow they become fancier in more remote areas.

This donkey was grazing right next to the road. As soon as she figured out I wasn’t any threat, she continued the graze.

Close to this shrine the road started to climb more steeply.

Here is a view looking back on the canyon I had climbed up.

The summit was just over 2000 meters.

A brief descent and then a second summit.

A pretty canyon on the other side as well. There was a small village at the 60km mark. I stopped and had a coke stop here. I had originally considered stopping here for the night, but it was a hot afternoon over 30C (high 80s) and the likely camp spot seemed hot and dry to stop in middle of the afternoon. Instead, I descended further and eventually the canyon opened up and it became flatter.

Some wide open cycling the last distance.

At 107km was a turnoff to Villa Union. The town was still several kilometers up the road, but I stopped at first reasonable hotel I found since I knew I would need to come back on the same road again tomorrow. Overall, a warm afternoon but pretty cycling particularly in the red canyons on both sides of the pass.

Posted in Argentina

Chilecito rest day

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2017-08-21 by mev2017-08-21

Happy San Martin Day!

I didn’t realize until later that today was a holiday. The supermarket was open on Sunday hours, so open in the morning and closed in the evening. Fortunately, I stocked up on most things in the morning. A number of the other shops still stayed closed, though I didn’t figure this out until later.

Four of us cyclists in town all on a rest day and all planning to depart tomorrow, so nice to catch up with others on similar journeys.

Some of the cars around I had previously seen in Europe but not for many years.

Otherwise also got a bit more rough planning together as I have three months (November 21st) to get to Puerto Montt some ~2150km from here. TDA will cycle the same distance in just under a month, so I do have a little time to play with. Following is a rough updated plan:

  • From here to Mendoza is ~650km and will have combination of an occasional town but also camping along the way.
  • I’ve booked a short flight back from Mendoza to Colorado in September. This gives me a chance to pick up new tires and potentially a few other spare parts. I had budgeted the time+money for one trip back to the USA and Mendoza seems like a good place for such trip and tires are a good excuse. The only drawback of flying from Mendoza instead of Puerto Montt is I’ll still need to carry anything extra I bring to Puerto Montt.
  • From Mendoza to Puerto Montt is another ~1500km to cycle most likely heading via Bariloche on the Argentina side.
  • Puerto Montt to Ushuaia with TDA is ~2475km and a more intense month of cycling – though no longer carrying my gear. TDA ride finishes in Ushuaia on December 21st at the summer solstice.
  • After that, fly back to the USA. My tenants’ Austin lease finishes December 31st and I will re-enter the working world in 2018.
Posted in Argentina, Planning

Chilecito

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2017-08-20 by mev2017-08-20

A longer day through more areas with wide open views and a bit more climbing than yesterday.

I discovered the downside of my free municipal campground last night. It was Saturday night and around 9:30 pm several motorcycles came, unloaded large boom-box type speakers and started blasting music. I was 200 meters away but it was still very loud. I went over, told them I wanted to sleep and asked to turn the volume down. That lasted about ten minutes before the music went loud again. A lot more people arrived and eventually late at night the party wrapped up and it became quiet again.

I had a second dose of loud music at 6:30 am as well, though I was already awake and so not as big a deal.

Once I got back to the main road, the route started with 150m of climb, one of three somewhat longer climbs today. The wind was more headwind than a tailwind, though never really strong.

A different type of shrine, this time to Difunta Correa with water to calm the eternal thirst.

Pituil was the only town today in distance of over 100km. I decided to take the road into town to stop at a small shop.

Here was the main square, otherwise a quiet place.

Warnings for narrow bridges, though I didn’t notice many.

What I did notice was that the road had been carefully patched for many kilometers. Quite a bit of work, though also led to a more bumpy ride.

These guys were parasailing. I first passed a guy with what looked like two green backpacks organizing his stuff in middle of nowhere. Next, I passed another guy wrapping up some red nylon in the bush not far from the road. Both had apparently landed not long before and were now organizing things to get rides back.

It wasn’t until I came past the main group as well as a sign with a parachute that I figured out what they were doing. We had a good conversation and they offered water and told me about the road ahead.

As the 3900 marker indicates, slowly chipping away at the distance on Ruta 40.

From here it was a slow steady climb up two hills and then into larger town of Chilecito. On Sunday late afternoon it seemed even quieter than one might find during siesta. Without much difficulty, found a reasonable hotel and then something to eat not far from the town square.

Otherwise figuring out whether to take a rest day here or shuffle some shorter days – as well as the next section of road which will have a 1200m climb up and over a pass.

Posted in Argentina

San Blas de los Sauces

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2017-08-19 by mev2017-08-19

I was on the road early as I expected it to be a long day. Overall, a nice ride through some wide open scrub and easier than I expected.

Leaving Belen I passed their war memorial. Here was a sign that said, “Las Malvinas Son Argentinas”. Essentially claiming that the Falkland Islands belong to Argentina. I was a bit surprised to find this here on an official sign. As you may remember, in 1982 Argentina invaded the Falklands before being defeated by the British. It is still official Argentina position to claim the Falklands leading to uproar like this. However, I still hadn’t expected a Las Malvinas reference here so far away from the South Atlantic.

The first village was Londres at 15km. Not quite sure what this banner means, but they also had yellow stars with the names on the road as well.

Gnomes on the roof.

Once I left town there was a 65km stretch with very few houses or other settlement.

Fortunately the road was good and there wasn’t yet much wind.

A somewhat elaborate Gauchito Gil shrine on the right.

Many of these shrines seem to have a lot of empty bottles around them.

A sign to a settlement off the main road.

A dead cow.

After 85km the road became Ruta 60 for 5 km and went more sharply into the wind. It was a slow grind.

Fortunately back to the intersection with Ruta 40 and a more southerly direction.

While most of the shops are closed for siesta, the ice cream places do seem to be open. I had a nice big ice cream here.

A sign for the first campground I passed. Not sure what all the service signs mean, e.g. the peace sign.

This monument was painted, though with names of local villages so not quite sure if this was intentional.

At the end of the road I found the municipal campground. It was good wifi, dirty bathrooms and as far as I can tell is free. Nice place to stop after a long ride today.

Posted in Argentina

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