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A bicycle ride across the Americas

from Deadhorse (SCC) to Ushuaia (USH)

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Category Archives: Baja

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Mazatlan, ready for stage four

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-12-26 by mev2016-12-26

I have arrived on mainland of Mexico after taking an overnight ferry from La Paz.

I had three relaxing days in La Paz. Had a hotel in downtown “malecon” (beach boardwalk) in middle of a touristy area.

Some years back the town was known for pearling, though now expect tourism plays a much bigger role.

On Christmas Day, I cycled 17km north to the ferry terminal north of town. I was several hours early, but figured I could hang out at the terminal as easily as in La Paz. I had already bought my tickets (1200 pesos ~= $60 + 200 pesos for the bicycle ~= $10) online and had stopped by the ferry office in La Paz earlier to pay for my bicycle.

The boarding time was 6pm for an 8pm departure. Through the afternoon more people arrived including two french cyclists.

Boarding was an easy process. They first let all passengers go without luggage. Next they called folks with luggage. We cyclists got on end of the line, though at some point they waved us forward. There supposedly was an airport type scanner to check the luggage but once they figured a bicycle and all bags wouldn’t go easily, they waved us past.

There are two layers of vehicles in the ferry, with mostly large trucks below and passenger automobiles and motorcycles below. I don’t think they were full. There were two main passenger decks. The lower “B” deck had the large “salon” lounges and many cabins. The upper “A” deck had a few more cabins but also a large restaurant/eating area.

We found a spot along the side to place my bike and I took the key panniers with me. Once inside, there was a choice. For those who didn’t have a cabin, were directed to the “salon”, passenger lounges. Apparently, large airline type seats and then TV screens playing movies all night long.

I had splurged for a cabin (990 pesos ~= $50) which was very nice. It had two beds below and also two beds above that could fold down. I had it all to myself. Also in my little cabin was a toilet and shower. Overall a nice place and had a good nights sleep.

In the evening before we left, a cafeteria-style restaurant served a meal that was also included in the fare. After that back to the cabin and asleep. I could barely feel the boat rocking back and forth a bit.

I found a few more of these green spots. This time next to the lifeboats. So do believe these are some form of more universal symbol for “assembly point”. Surprised I hadn’t seen more of them in the US before.

The ferry arrived around 10:30am, but it was an hour later before I was off the boat. Now time to get my bearings and find way to hotel I had reserved. Without too much trouble, I cycled through the small streets of the old town and found myself on the main road along the malecon.

Mazetlan has a number of miles of sandy beaches with hotels and restaurants along the way. Overall a nice place to arrive, though I’ll be eager to get on the road again.

The next phase is phase 4 and covers the rest of Mexico. Plan is to follow the coast to town of Tepic and then go inland and up the highlands via Guadalajara. This also seems to be the most common route in cycling journals I’ve read. After that, plan to skirt around Mexico City to Puebla.

After Puebla, there is a fork in the road with one of two possible endpoints: Tapachula on the Pacific near Guatamala border or Chetumal on the Caribbean near the Belize border. I haven’t completely decided which of these two end points I will shoot for, but have some time before finalizing.

Reflecting back on Phase 3 (Baja), this all went at least as easily as I expected. The road is narrow, but I knew that. Otherwise, many places to stay and enough places to get food and water along the way. Baja was windy, but otherwise dry and sunny. One other thing I find nice is I’ve likely passed my shortest day. From Prudhoe Bay (continuous sunshine) to San Diego, the days kept getting shorter and by time I left after Thanksgiving the day was only 10 hours and 12 minutes long. I’ve already got 30 minutes more daylight coming from being further south including crossing into the tropics (San Diego now 10 hours even).

Now on to see a bit more of Mexico!

Posted in Baja, Mexico, Sinaloa

Feliz Navidad

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-12-22 by mev2016-12-22


Merry Christmas and best wishes for a happy and healthy 2017 from La Paz, Baja, Mexico!

Had a nice relaxing two days with the Connors in Los Barriles. It is a neat little community with a surprising amount of restaurants, shops and other places. Quite a few gringos around so a fair amount of English is spoken and even saw a shop of two with prices in US$ instead of Mexican pesos. Mike Connor gave me a ride back to La Paz today, for which I’m grateful.

Found and patched a hole in the thermarest…well at least hope so since after finding what I thought was a hole it somehow didn’t want to emit bubbles again. That will be the fun surprise next night of camping. After going to sleep will I wake up in middle of the night on the flat ground or will it remain inflated through the night?

Also caught up on multiple blogs to plan out some of the next phase. The first ~500km cycling to Guadalajara should be fairly straightforward and after that still a few options. However, general idea will be to climb into highlands after Tepic. In general there seems to be a tradeoff between using the “cuota” or toll roads that are reported to have good surfaces and good shoulders but not many services to stop – vs the libres or free roads that are sometimes very busy and of varying condition.

I’ve also been sorting out getting a working cell phone. Initially went to the customer service center. After standing in line for an hour, the service person essentially came to conclusion that since the phone wasn’t a Mexican phone, he couldn’t determine what was needed to make things work. I didn’t fully believe him, so when got into La Paz, went to a local distributor and local guy was able to make things work perfectly well.

I’ll be in La Paz for a few days before taking the ferry to Mazatlan on the mainland. Nice to have some days of quiet down time, though I’ll also be excited to get back on the road again.

Posted in Baja, Mexico

Los Barriles

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-12-19 by mev2016-12-19

Today a ride over the hills to town of Los Barriles where I’m visiting the Connors.

First a mystery. I’ve seen these spots painted on the sidewalks in a few spots and most recently outside the hotel. Done in green. Not quite certain what this is supposed to symbolize.

Leaving the hotel, noticed that my odometer was just about to turn over from 9999km. Official distance on the trip is 9960km at end of the day, but this had some extra miles during my Austin visit and also missing a few official miles where I used a different odometer. In any case, I expect to leave finish Baja with slightly over 10,000km in last six months and at least another 16,000km to go until tip of South America.

Once I left La Paz, te road was flat and open and four lanes.

I passed through San Pedro at 16km and then at 23km, the road split. I followed MX 1 to the left where it became one lane each way and continued slowly climbing.

At 44km, I came into small town of El Triumfo. Nice church and also a nice restaurant where I had a late breakfast. I had done perhaps half the climbing for the day, though much of it was very gradual. After El Triumfo, climbing became a bit steeper.

Down in the next valley was San Antonio. This meant a good descent and then ascent up the other side where I took this photo. After rounding the bend, another good descent of ~200m and then climbing again. Overall the day would be slightly over 1000m of climb.

Coming back up the climb, I met these Dutch cyclists. Each winter they go somewhere warm and this year it was a cycle trip starting in Mexico City and now on Baja.

At 70km, most of the climbing was done. From here ~600m of descent spread over the last 30km.

This brought me to town of Los Barriles. I followed my instructions to go through town and then not much later found my way to Casa Connor. Nice to see Mike and Peggy again, this time in Baja.

Posted in Baja, Mexico

South of La Paz

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-12-18 by mev2016-12-19


What a difference the wind makes. Two days cycling, first one averaging 17.2 km/h and second 13.9 km/h. Neither real fast, but definitely had more favorable winds on the first than the second day.

The goal was simple: make it to La Paz in two days. I had cycled 3km when I came to sign outside Ciudad Constitution, so plan was to ride to El Cien (cien == 100) the first day and the remainder on second day. Road started out flat and straight with a shoulder.

At the 8km mark, there was suddenly 7km of construction. My speed slowed as I picked my way along the dusty and sometimes sandy bypass road. It was nice to be through that construction.

Soon I was out cycling through more desolate regions. Seems like some of these shrines have been getting more elaborate. Also seems like a cross between simple memorials for those along the road and some more extensive shrines.

The shoulder went away but not too much traffic. Also nice to have a light tailwind in this section.

Without too much trouble, I had ridden 50km and was at Santa Rita. This small market had yogurt and water and all I needed to get replenished. After this the road turned to have more of a cross-wind and also some slight rolling hills.

Another more elaborate shrine.

Settlement of Las Pocitas was big enough to have an OXXO and also this small fruit seller. Had a late lunch and relaxed for a bit.

El Cien! Made it to 100. There was small loncheria here. Also found the local church and camped behind it.

Overall, a not too tough day and pretty ride. Camping behind the church was peaceful and great place to see the stars.

Church even had an outhouse. OK, well the “house” portion was missing, but otherwise seemed to be in use. Next morning got ready to ride remaining 100km.

Several of the loncheria in this part have the km marker as part of their name. This road had a few more hills. It went roughly downwind to the 77km mark where I stopped at a loncheria to refuel. After this point the road turned and it became more difficult cycling.

This area has many small mesas and buttes. Pretty country overall, but also more climbing than the first day. At 50km, also came to several kilometers of road construction. This was tougher than yesterday, since the temporary road went up and down some steep sandy hills. I ended up walking a few. Also after initial construction, the road turned much more into the wind. Hence, had a tougher riding.

Nice to see kilometers count down. At 70km mark turned more sharply into the wind but also down hill. Went through an agricultural control point and then this Pemex station.

At this point at 82km, the area already seemed a bit more urban, with two lanes of traffic each way.

Met this cyclist from Korea who had started his ride in Vancouver, BC and was headed to Cancun.

The last kilometers were busy. At 92km, I came past a sequence of big box stores, e.g. Walmart, Home Depot. From this point I decided to take a bypass road to head around La Paz instead of straight into the center. Even had a guy in a convertible stop and offer unsolicited advice, “Going to Cabo? Take a right at next light and then 96 miles further”. While, I’m not headed all the way to Cabo, I did cycle a few kilometers south of town so am now 7km from town center. Plan is to ride to Los Borriles.

Overall, second day was more exhausting than first, mostly because of the winds, though construction (both days) and hills (more second day) also played some role. Nice to be close to La Paz.

Posted in Baja, Mexico

Ciudad Constitution

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-12-15 by mev2016-12-15

Two days cycling brought me to somewhat larger town of Ciudad Constitution. I split the distance by making a shorter ride to Ligui yesterday, the last town on Sea of Cortez, and then a longer ride today.

These workers were part of bridge construction just south of Loreto. Fortunately, construction wasn’t bad. South of Loreto there were several more fancy resort type hotels including at least two golf courses.

Upcoming distances nicely noted.

At 17km, I stopped and had breakfast at Vista del Mar restaurant. Photo was taken with camera “HDR” mode to bring out some of the contrasts. It was nice pleasant stop.

Despite leaving late and stopping for breakfast, it was still early when I arrived at the Ligui Mini-Market. Now time to find a place to camp. The recommended place seems to be out at the beach, so I headed out to the beach.

A little over a kilometer later, I had followed this sandy road and was at the beach. It hot and not particularly appealing place to spend an afternoon. So, I headed back to town and figured I would see if I could find a cooler place to spend the afternoon and perhaps a better place to camp.

There was a small police office next to a large pavilion. With my broken Spanish, I had roughly the following conversation:
– Where is camping?
– Camp at the beach?
– It is hot at the beach and there are flies (I didn’t know the word for flies so had to make little buzzing examples)
– We will have an event with many people at the pavilion at 5pm. So not good to camp here now, but if you come later around 7pm, you can camp here.
– Confirm 7pm, mucho gracias.

So I found a nice spot to relax in the town. It looked like a closed government office, but there were hard plastic chairs outside and some shade where I could read my kindle.

Around 5pm, I wandered over the pavilion to see what was going on. Indeed folks were starting to gather. A little past the pavilion was a small field in rough shape of baseball field. I decided to try setting up the tent there. First try, I found a spot with many goat-head thorns but coming behind a small wall, I found a good spot to pitch the tent. I could also hear the goings on at the celebration. They had a local dignitary/guest speaker and also did some form of raffle of several children’s bicycles. It was a bit more like “bingo” since they called multiple numbers before there was a winner. Not much past 7pm, people started leaving and a little later they turned off the big lights.

I decided my little camp site was at least as good as moving to the pavilion, so slept there for the night.

Above is a picture of the pavilion from the next morning. Someone actually came and switched on the lights at 5am and rustled around for a while, so just as well I didn’t camp there. I was up early and back at the mini-market not long after it opened at 7am. Ate breakfast and topped off on water before setting off for a longer ride.

The first 1.5km was flat and then next 8km had a solid climb of 370m (1220ft) with some steep parts. Fortunately, it was still cool and I was fresh for the climb. After the 10km, some rolling terrain and slightly higher pass to cross over.

Rather elaborate memorial I saw along the way.

At 22km was the only confirmed spot to refuel in first 85km, a restaurant at turnoff to Agua Verde. The word “restaurant” is on the building, but it is a very simple place with a few snack food items and some bottled water. Enough to take a short break, drink some cool water and get back on the road.

At 30km mark, I was pleasantly surprised to find this sign.

Nice little roadside spot and a cold coca-cola definitely was a welcome change. From here the road followed a valley for a bit and then made a climb back at the 45km mark. After this I left any valley and was in wide open desert land. There was a gradual descent. I had a side wind, but fortunately not too much. Otherwise, it was a steady ride for next 40km to reach Ciudad Insurgentes.

At entrance to the town was Hotel Las Californias, though I didn’t stay there. My odometer said 85km, the thermometer said 35C (95F) and I was happy to find a small store for cold liquids and chance to refresh. Decided to ride just a bit further to next larger town.

The road south of town became four lanes, but fortunately not much traffic.

This area was first I had seen in a while with some agricultural fields. I even saw a few center pivot sprinkers to bring water onto the fields. Not sure how much will grow without some irrigation.

At 110km, made it to outskirts of town and cycled until found a reasonable place to stay. At this point, think I am two solid days of cycling to La Paz, though I have a number of extra days before my ferry reservation (including some days to ride south to Los Barriles), so may take a rest day here.

Posted in Baja, Mexico

Loreto

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-12-13 by mev2016-12-13

Two days cycling brought me to Loreto. This town has more of a touristy and “gringo” feel to it than Mulege. For example, more English signs, menus and other things. However, still enough Spanish to keep me on my toes.

The first day was a short ride of only 42km ending up on the Bahai Conception. The bay is off the power grid and without cell service and is a bit of an out of the way oasis. I took my time leaving Mulege since I knew I wasn’t riding far. There are many palm trees growing wild here.

After a short while, I met some of the first northbound cyclists I’ve stopped and talked with. I gave them my “Baja Norte” map since I wouldn’t need it anymore.

The road ducked away from the coast where I got a photo of these vultures each perched on a different cactus top.

At 17km, the road descended for my first view of Bahai Conception.

There are perhaps a dozen total of these little beaches. Many like this one seem to have a lot of RVs parked semi-permanently as well as some basic huts built as well.

Another photo looking back at one of the beaches. I found one that had small cafe and stopped for a short break. It was over 30C and a hot sunny day.

Another photo looking back the way I had come.

At 42km, I came around the bend and saw Playa Buenaventura. This is the last restaurant along the bay and last place to camp with restrooms. It is a fun place (Facebook Page) owned by American’s with Mexican descent. Owners lived in Wisconsin so the bar has some Green Bay packers paraphernalia.

Relaxed in the cool shade of the bar. Three other cyclists also came by: two were the American couple I had met some days before. The other was a “bikepacker” who was riding some of the off-road (rugged) sections of road in Baja.

Camped out on the beach under an almost full moon. Next morning was treated to a nice sunrise. Nathan fixed a hearty breakfast sandwich and I was on the road early since I planned a longer day.

Otherwise, today would have been “Taco Tuesday”. Nathan said perhaps ~75-100 people came each Tuesday between ~10am to ~3pm for his taco specialties. Some come from Mulege and many come from surrounding beaches. Sounds like an interesting event.

The American couple also were on the road close to the same time.

The first 18km continued along the Bahai Conception to southernmost part of the bay. After this point, there was a solid climb over the next 6km to get up and out of the drainage. Glad it was still somewhat cool for the climb.

At 32km was the first and mostly only place to stop for the day, a small roadside cafe. Took a photo of this stream here since this is the first running water I have seen in Baja. These washes are mostly all dry.

A few kilometers later was one of the turnoffs to these gravel roads. An interesting alternative for mountain biking, though one needs to be prepared for lots of soft sand and also make sure to bring enough water.

The road I followed looked more like this. Still somewhat desolate country but a lot easier road to cycle and more traffic along the way. Had a general gradual descent and tailwind that pushed me along until km 67. After that the next 13km were a fairly consistent climb. Only noticed in retrospect from the profile why that part of the ride seemed to drag on, it was a good climb.

At top of the hill, cycled the last 14km into larger town of Loreto. Had to work through best way to get into town and then find a place to stay. I’ve been seeing a number of the “taller mechanico” type signs, and took me a bit to look the “taller” word up. Apparently, mechanical workshop or garage. This one also does welding. Nice to be in a somewhat larger town. Now sort out the next section of the ride.

Posted in Baja, Mexico

Mulege

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-12-11 by mev2016-12-11

Today an easy ride to nice small town of Mulege. I had a destination of ~100km in mind and figured I would wait to see if I split it into two days. Town of Mulege was inviting enough, so decided to stay.

Another beautiful sunny day and fortunately road surfaces became better again after leaving Santa Rosalia. At 12km, I stopped at the mini-super “Lili” which had a surprising variety of food.

Not too far away, this vulture was out on a street pole.

The route left the coast over a low hill and then was mostly inland and fairly flat. I saw the ocean for 1st 15km and not after that. Still narrow road but also not too much traffic.

I crossed some larger dry river beds on newly constructed bridges. This photo looking down at the old road, shows that in many spots that old road was completely gone where it crossed the river beds. This area seems to have been hit by hurricanes in 2014 and 2016 as well as earlier years, so when it rains apparently it can really pour.

I climbed up a low ridge at 55km and then descended down into Mulege. Photo above showed the entrance to the town.

It had chance to brush up on my Spanish.

While it was still early, the town had nice inviting little street and decided to stop here for the day.

The laundry service was closed, but washed a few items by hand.

There is a little fire station.

Mulege and other places also have these little places to fill up on purified water. I haven’t used one yet (mostly filtered my own water) but seems handly. Overall a pleasant ride today and chance to wander around through this town.

Posted in Baja, Mexico

Santa Rosalia

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-12-10 by mev2016-12-10

Made it to the Sea of Cortez and also passed 1000km mark since I restarted in San Diego.

Today was a pleasant ride and one I rode with another cyclist for a little over half the distance. San Ignacio looks like a nice little town nestled into a valley. It was a few km more riding before I was heading up for the first larger hill to climb. It was steep in a few bits, but nothing too bad. No much further was a small loncheria “Datil” where I stopped for a coke.

Not many kilometers ahead I thought I spotted something on the road. Could it be another cyclist? Not sure and I was actually slowly gaining. I met up with Corine, a US cyclist who had been heading southbound along Baja Peninsula. Nice to ride with someone else for a change and over the next 40+km we cycled together. Over the next 30km, the route slowly climbed from ~250m to over ~500m all the while getting closer to large imposing Volcan las Tres Virgenes. Just before the 40km mark we crested a local summit and had a short descent back and then mostly level again. Fortunately, much less wind today than yesterday.

At the 57km mark we could see the Sea of Cortez below! Told Corine to go ahead since I’m slow on descents and she was planning on riding further. The descent itself had a few steeper sections but within 3km had lost most of the elevation and then over a few hills and to the coast.

There were some large mineral extraction areas here and the road was surprisingly beat up in this section.

Without much difficulty made my way through the town where this railway engine was posted and then found a place to stay a little past the center in the south. Overall, a moderate amount of climbing today but nice to share the long gradual climb with another cyclist and also nice to have reached the Sea of Cortez.

Posted in Baja, Mexico

San Ignacio

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-12-09 by mev2016-12-11

Easy start and a windy tougher finish.

Road started flat through dry regions. Occasional bits of agriculture but mostly dry cactus and scrub. I had left not long after sunrise in part to get early if the wind kicked up. Photo above shows another of those local memorials.

Photo looks like they might be protecting the fruit.

After 36km started a very gentle climb to a mesa and then after less flat and a lot more little hills including an occasional quick dip but then a 6-8% climb on the other end. Despite the people in the photo, I think this restaurant was actually closed.

Several longer climbs and as I crested on near 60km, suddenly the wind picked up. First gently but with surprising strength after that. I was fortunate that San Ignacio was less then 10km away since wind was making it a lot more difficult.

Saw this sign for bicycle camping, though also saw a nice motel that offered chance to get out of the wind. San Ignacio has several road-side businesses including this one, but town is in a little valley a little bit ahead and off to the south.

Posted in Baja, Mexico

El Marasal

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-12-08 by mev2016-12-08

Todays location also seems to have name Vizcaino, though that name also seems to apply to a broader region.

Today turned out to be a nice easy ride, flat and not much wind. I had expected flat terrain but wild card was whether head winds might pick up. I started with good breakfast in the hotel and was on the road shortly thereafter. I had stayed at hotel outside Guerrero Negro so first passed under an arch welcoming to Baja California Sur.

The agricultural station was shortly thereafter.

Here are few houses from Guerrero Negro. Notice how each one has its own water tank on the roof. I’ve seen one or two tank trucks but am surprised there aren’t more. This is very dry region, so I don’t expect them to catch much rainwater.

After Guerrero Negro, the road became very flat and open. This is taken looking backwards with the sun. Felt like a “training ride” as mostly pedaling on flat terrain as the kilometers passed.

I did see a few horses and one cow. There was an occasional house along the way and signs for small roads leading off the main highway.

At 40km was this small store by a few more houses. Nice place to stop and get a quick snack. After this several cyclists passed including the two American cyclists from yesterday. I also cycled for short bit with a German cyclist who started in Anchorage, rode up to Fairbanks and is heading southbound eventually also through Central America and eventually South America. He was riding with a second German cyclist and had met along the way.

At 76km I came to small town of Vizcaino. It was still early but a bit too far to San Ignacio in a single day and so otherwise nice place to stop. I wandered through town after that to get bite to eat and see some shops.

Posted in Baja, Mexico

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