A bicycle ride across the Americas

Happy May Day! Today is a holiday in Colombia. I didn’t figure it out at first, but kept seeing many cyclists out on the road. Almost, as if it was a Sunday…

After that, figured it out. Unfortunately, also looks like fewer grocery store options available to get some breakfast for tomorrow morning.

My hotel room was inside, but I was listening carefully to see if I could detect signs of rain. Often, unless it is heavy, don’t hear the rain itself but instead water running down spouts or hitting the street. I kept hearing some water and thought uh, oh, will be a wet day. However, was a false alarm as the fish tank at hotel made the gurgling sounds. Overall turned out to be a nice and dry day.

The road started climbing right from Chinchina. Overall, there was ~700m of climb today; 400m net to the high point and then an 800m descent down to the valley.

As I was cycling slowly uphill, I saw quite a few cyclists going both directions. Some passing me on the hill and others such as these zooming down the other side.

There were several places selling chorizo sausage. I stopped for a breakfast at 13km, though not with sausage.

Not much past this point, I crossed over the top. Thought it was interesting that the times for start and finish for school pretty much overlapped.

Down the other side was Pereira. It was a large city, but I was able to take a highway bypass that avoided the center.

Road was generally good. Once again a toll booth.

There was a last bit of descent into Cartago. I again found a hotel near the city center.

There is a nice leafy park nearby.

In center was a statue, presumably one of the early Spanish settlers.

Noticed the town was mostly shut down for the holiday with many people otherwise out in the park. From this point, I should be in a flat valley for next ~200km so not as many hills for short while.

I am hanging out overlooking town square in small town of Irra. I can hear (and feel) loud music with definite thumping beat. Lots of people outside, some in the park, others on small shops. I was fortunate to find a room in “Hotel Central”, essentially the only hotel in town. It did take some work to carry my bike up two flights of narrow stairs. There is free wifi in the park, so am able to make this posting.

Today was a pretty ride along the Cacua river canyon.

La Pintada was still sleepy town when I departed, a contrast from evening before. Here I crossed the river bridge and there was town on other side as well.

Vultures sitting in the tree.

There were more opportunities for truck washes today. These guys were giving a good clean, but noticed my camera.

Side creeks are fairly muddy. Looked like these guys were sluicing for gold or other mineral.

Still many of these animal signs. Not sure if these are all to watch out for, or highway department is having fun getting all the different animals on signs.

Several spots with construction today. At several of these vendors had shown up to hawk food or drink to the drivers and bus occupants.

At 46km was La Felisa. Reports were the hotel didn’t allow bicycles inside. Otherwise, had a feel of a “truck stop” type of town.

Lots of eateries though.

Another of those animal signs.

In one of the construction zones, I even went through a tunnel. Fortunately, this one had lights.

Today was my brother’s birthday. Congrats Tom!

We were born on the same day, five years apart. Thank you for birthday greetings sent.

At 65km, reached small town of Irra. There was a hotel downtown. It did require carrying my bicycle up two narrow flights of stairs. I didn’t think there was wifi until later. From here, the route leaves the river canyon, so understand there will be more hilly terrain. No huge climbs, but a lot of ups and downs.

Down the hill and into the big city.

Overall an easy day, though descending 1000+ meters and riding into a city of 2.5 million does take some concentration. I wasn’t in a big hurry since I knew today would be straight forward. The first 5km were actually a slight uphill to ~2200m (7400ft).

I passed a little piece of Eden along the way.

At 5km, I came to edge of the downhill. The valley floor is 1100m (3900ft) below. As I descended, there were at least 20 recreational cyclists climbing slowly up the hill. A few reached the top and then passed me back on the way down.

At 18km, I was down at the bottom and joined a major highway heading very slightly up the valley towards Medellin. There was a bike path here. It was a bit bumpy, particularly when it crossed a lot of side streets. It was also incomplete, going away in parts.

The road cyclists pretty much all avoided it and rode in the right lane. Traffic was light and this seemed to work. I alternated doing some sections on the road and some in the bike path. By 38km, it had gotten pretty busy.

I took a traffic circle and then onto a secondary highway. No bike path, but this one had a sidewalk. Again, I tried the sidewalk in some pieces, but mostly ended up on the road.

The last section even marked the right lane for bicycles and trucks. At 48km, I turned off this road and into the main city. Without too much trouble, I found my way to reasonable hotel recommended by other cyclist blogs.

I am about 1km from the main commercial district, so took a walk.

A pedestrian mall with several closed shopping streets.

Light rail running through it.

A city bike share program, the bikes are inside these lockers.

Have seen more of these assembly points in Colombia and other countries.

Overall, getting into Medellin took some care, but compared with other large Latin American Cities I’ve ridden, this was easier than average. Now will take some time to plot my route to Cali and following via points. Pretty much guaranteed there will be some substantial climbs though.

Toto, we’re not in Kansas anymore…

While the lowlands I cycled the first week aren’t exactly like Kansas either, my last cycling day and a half is markedly different as I’ve climbed up into the mountains. Today, I heard for first time, “the hot water is on the left”. Previously, there was only one temperature and I was happy when it was cool.
Day One
Left the lowlands today and started climbing. Temperature starting out today (~22C, 71F) was similar to temperature in middle of day at elevation (~25C, 77F) though it did get warmer in between.

Started early and came through Taraza town when all was still quiet. The first 43km were mostly flat as I followed the Cacua River.

This first stretch had quite a few jets of water squirting into the air. Tempting to ride under and get a cool soaking. As shown on the sign, most of these were for washing vehicles and I saw several trucks stopped and being given a good wash.

The river was large and a brownish color. Slowly started going into a steeper valley.

A lot of these little creeks along the way with rushing water.

At 43km, I came to Puerto Valdivia. The route had climbed ~100m in the last 43km – but now would head sharply up for the next 20km.

There was a little bakery here to get a bite to eat and fuel for the climb.

There was a nice bike shop. I saw perhaps 15 recreational riders out today, most with cycling gear and helmets.

A small hotel across the street.

After this crossed the bridge and took a photo of this small piece of town. From here it would be ~20km of a consistent grade. The first part was both warmest and a few spots were the steepest. My odometer read 37C (98F), of which some was in the sun, but definitely a warm and sweaty start.

The road was sometimes narrow and not much in way of shoulders. Trucks were reasonably good about giving room, but needed to be careful around some of the corners.

A slow and steady climb and chance to take another rest at 50km mark at a small hotel and restaurant. I was surprised at how many small places there were along the way.

At 57km, was another break. Here was a small pool and waterfall and some cooling off. However, by now temperatures had also fallen.

It was a nice sight to see Valdivia. I believe the main part of town is on a sharp hill up to the left. However, I stayed on the main road. The nearby gas station also had restaurant and hotel. No internet, but also only 20,000 pesos ($7) so can’t complain too much. I was a bit beat after the climb, but also nice to have cooler temperatures here.

Day Two
It rained heavily starting around 2am. I listened to the rain and decided to repack my gear: moving my sleeping bag from (not very waterproof) stuff sack into a pannier and moving other things into the stuff sack. While it was still raining in the morning when I got up, it was definitely lighter than the heavy overnight rains and hence I set off.

The first 15km had a majority of the climb (~900m or 3000ft) net altitude gain. I started out reasonably strong, but around the 8km mark it became just a bit steeper, particularly an occasional very steep section. To switch off, I walked a bit or two of the steepest bits. Fortunately, by 11km, it was just slightly better and I was back riding. I could see the local top up in photo above, but it took a long time to reach.

At the top was a military post and 1km later was a nice restaurant/cafe. Well positioned to get a morning snack. After this, I still had a net 450m (1500ft) of climbing, but glad I had the largest share of climb early. It was ~14C (57F) and just on verge of mist/rain and hence needed to make sure I kept moving to keep warm.

Another backlog of trucks stopped here. My best guess was a large oversize vehicle coming up the steep bits. It later also passed me.

Definitely a green landscape.

Many little waterfalls.

Finally at 32km, I crested the high point for the day. My odometer is set to record distances in meters but elevations in feet.

A few kilometers later, Yarumal was visible down below.

Cycled right into the main square and found nice hotel right off the square. In the afternoon the sun even came out for a short bit! Weather forecast for tomorrow calls for even more rain, but will check conditions in the morning or whether to take an rest day excuse in this little town.

Pleasant ride in lowlands of Colombia. Road was flatter, but a little worse condition and also busier. Caucasia was surprisingly large town, with a lot of motorcycles.

Planeta Rica was nice little town and my hotel was nice and close to the town square. Also had a supermarket nearby to stock up for some breakfast items to eat before departing. The first part of the ride the road was sometimes rough grooved pavement as well as a few spots with road construction. As seen on sign above, either gasoline is expensive here (per liter) or much more likely, this is second Latin American country that sells by the gallon. Guatemala was the first country and others (Mexico, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama) all by the liter.

At 14km there was a toll booth. Instead of having special toll roads, Colombia seems to have these toll booths on major highways I’ve been on. There are ~2850 pesos per dollar so costs a car either $2 or $4 for a toll.

Motorcycles are free on that special right lane beside the trucks. Bicycles also travel on that lane.

Some pleasant riding through the countryside.

I’ve been passing a number of large ranches or finacs. Even saw a cowboy on horse trying to herd some of these cattle.

At 24km, the town of Buenavista had a nice town center on the main road. Stopped here for a snack and short break.

In Mexico, speed bumps were “tope”. In Guatamala, this became “tomulus”. Here the signs warn of “zona de resaltos”. Wonder how many further variations I will have going south.

A termite mound.

That fence seems to be made of living trees each sprouting a little bit.

Large bridge over the San Jorge river. Today the route was flatter than yesterday, though still a few rolling hills to climb over.

At 48km, a pleasant surprise. Gas stations here usually don’t have much else or perhaps a hotel and restaurant. However, this was first one I saw with a Subway. Prices were similar to US prices and hence rather expensive for Colombia. However, inside was air conditioning, so nice chance to cool down a bit before cycling the last 20km.

Caucasia was a busy town. I had a hotel in mind from previous blog, but looked like it was closed for renovation. So continued on main road and just south of town, found a reasonable hotel. My route will now follow the Cauca River just slightly uphill for the next 100km before starting a sharp ascent up and over the first set of mountains – as well as expected cooler temperatures that come with elevation.

I’m now at 8 degrees north latitude and hence same as my southernmost point in Panama.