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A bicycle ride across the Americas

from Deadhorse (SCC) to Ushuaia (USH)

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Rawlins, Wyoming hospitality, Wyoming wind

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-09-12 by mev2016-09-12

Two days cycling brought me from Lander to Rawlins. Wyoming is often windy and on second day we had a front come through the might have increased that wind.
Day One
My description for the first day was “26-6-26”. This meant 26 miles of gently rolling hills, followed by a 6 mile climb, followed by 26 miles of mostly flat.
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Riding started out well, here is an example of one of those rolling hills.
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After 26 miles, I came to the base of the “Beaver Divide”. This was a steady climb that gained ~1100ft. By now, the wind was starting to pick up and during the climb there was some cross-wind as well as small bits of head wind. However, without too much trouble I slowly made my way to the top.
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Here is the description of the Beaver Rim
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Along with the view from the top. Tough to see in the distance, but believe Togwotee Pass is off there in the distance. By now the wind had definitely picked up and it was mostly a tailwind.
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Six at 38 miles was a rest area. I ate my lunch items inside out of the wind. While I didn’t stop in (it was Sunday), there was also the Mormon Handcart historic site nearby.

From what I’ve read, (wikipedia), some of the Mormon pioneers made the journey to Utah pulling handcarts. At this location, two handcart companies encountered early snows and a number of people perished. Just cycling this route on smooth pavement, one definitely gets a sense of how difficult it must have been to have walked through this area pulling a cart.
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The last 20 miles were open riding with a good tailwind.
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The horses seem to congregate when there is wind.

This brought me to Jeffrey City. Jeffrey City had once been a booming uranium mining town with several thousand people. About 95% of the people left and one can see some abandoned buildings from the road.
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The Split Rock Cafe and Bar seems to be a center of what is left. I stopped in for a late lunch.
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This community also has reputation of being very welcoming to cyclists. Sign above pointed to the Community Church a little ways away.
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Both the church and the pottery building will let cyclists camp. Later in the evening I talked with the pottery dude. He had bought an old gas station some years ago for $5000 and now makes and sells pottery. He realizes he won’t see much pottery to cyclists, but still gives them cookies and has a spot on the Adventure Cycling maps offering behind his store as camping place.

He also pointed out to me that Jeffrey City had won a June Curry award from Adventure Cycling for being such a welcoming community after the local motel had shut down.
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While the motel has reopened (and I stayed there), I definitely got a sense of welcome hanging out in the Split Rock cafe and talking with folks.
Day Two
The wind howled through the night as the front passed through. I knew it was shifting from SW (tailwind) to NE (headwind for 1st 23 miles) so somewhat concerned of how difficult the day might become. Fortunately, by 7am the wind had lessened. I had a breakfast at the Split Rock cafe and then set out into the wind.
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It was much colder and there were some drops of rain. This made for slow steady slog.
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After 15 miles I came past Split Rock.
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Here is the description.

After 23 miles, I came to the Muddy Gap junction. The temperature had dropped to ~3C (37F) and last bits had some head wind. Fortunately, it warmed up significantly from here and the road also changed to have more tail wind as I went through muddy gap.
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I crossed the continental divide to a region known as “Great Divide Basin”. There isn’t much precipitation or water in this basin and the water that is there evaporates rather than going to either Atlantic or Pacific.
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Despite the sign, the Anna-lope cafe in Lamont was not open.
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I have been following the “Transamerica Trail” which goes from Virginia to Oregon. However, the Great Divide Mountain bike route also rejoined here for last 15 miles into Rawlins. These cyclists had started August 8th in Banff and were doing the Great Divide.
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Not much later, I crossed the continental divide and left the Great Divide basin. The last miles into Rawlins were fast as they were downhill and down wind. Yeah! Overall definitely had some strong winds the past two days and also good sense of hospitality at Jeffrey City.

Posted in USA, Wyoming | Tagged June Curry, wind

Lander, wide open spaces

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-09-10 by mev2016-09-10

Higher than average miles today (75 miles) but still an easy day as winds and elevation drop were favorable.
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Today was a day with 45F (25C) temperature swing. Morning was cold 34F but mid-afternoon was over 80F. Flag flying above meant I started out with tailwinds! While they didn’t last much beyond the first 20 miles, the wind and elevation drop made for a fast and easy start.
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At 12 miles I crossed over onto Wind River Indian Reservation where I would ride for the next 58 miles. This sandstone was just a few miles after entering the reservation. Other than the entry/exit signs and a few shops, I didn’t necessarily notice that much different about this reservation.
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Parts of it were still agricultural and other parts were wide open lands or grazing land. At 25 miles was Burris which mostly seemed to consist of a house and a sign and 5 miles later some more ranches near Crowheart.
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Met a cyclist who started in Tennessee, rode to New York City and was now heading west. We traded information about the road ahead. Also had a snack at the Crowheart store. By now the wind had shifted some, occasionally a cross-wind or even slight headwind but fortunately not very hard.
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There was a rest area at 41 miles that had this description of the wind. Mentioned on the sign are bighorn sheep. There is a bighorn sheep museum in Debois, but unfortunately their fall hours yesterday closed at 4pm and I just missed them. Three miles later, the road split.
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The next mile was a bit of a climb and then I was out in the wide open spaces.
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Fort Washakie seemed to be a bit more of a town and had another gas station convenience store to stop. By now the road thermometers were over 80F and also a bit more traffic on the road. Cycled the last 15 miles to Lander. Lander is a pretty big town: over 7000 residents and first traffic lights I’ve seen since entering Wyoming four days and 200+ miles ago.
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There is a large bike shop here, Gannett Peak Sports that gives an ice cream bar to touring cyclists (thanks!) and also had a log book that you could sign. Added my entry along with the others. They definitely get some traffic through here. Otherwise got out the maps and looked for next few days. Approximately two days cycling to Rawlins and then some different choices.

Posted in USA, Wyoming | Tagged bike shop, plains

Dubois, over Togwotee Pass

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-09-09 by mev2016-09-09

The objective today was simple: climb ~3000 feet up and over Togwotee Pass and descend the other side to Dubois.
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The Tetons were behind me and ~17.5 miles of climbing from Hatchet to the summit with the majority of this in the first half. I got into low gear and slowly went up the hill. At 9 miles was Togwotee Lodge, an upscale place.
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I stopped in to buy a candy bar and take a short rest. After this the road was slightly flatter for a few miles and then some shorter steep climbs. While it wasn’t fast, I was happy to get to the summit and see the sign. Hooray!
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A slight tailwind had picked up which was also welcome. From here, the first nine miles had more of the descent and then more gradual after that.
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Above is a photo of some of the rock formations near the summit. As I descended I came past some burned areas. The Lava Mountain lodge had sign “tx firefighters” so assume the two were related.
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These three cyclists started July 17th from east coast and were following the Transamerica Trail to Oregon.
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This monument was to “tie hacks”, in particular those whose particular skills were in hacking trees to create well-formed railroad ties. This eventually died off both as demand for railroad ties lessened and as sawmills were used instead.
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This cyclist had started in Vermont and was on his way to the west coast.
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Tailwinds and a slight descent made for good travels. As I got nearer to Dubois (locals pronounce it as “dew-boys”) the rocks and landscapes also changed. Looks a fair amount dryer than on the west side of the pass.
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Nice to reach Dubois and find place to stay. I did investigate this jackalope exhibit, but nothing particularly fancy here.

Posted in USA, Wyoming | Tagged jackalope, pass

Moran, Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-09-08 by mev2016-09-08

Two days of pretty cycling to catch a slice of Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks.
Day One
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West Yellowstone is definitely a gateway community focused on guests to the National Parks. At 6:30am, a tour bus was busy filling up outside the motel. I walked over to the McDonalds for a breakfast and then packed to go. At 34F (1C), it was at least above freezing. Withing 0.5 miles I reached the entrance station and showed my pass.
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At 2.5 miles I crossed into Wyoming. The first 14 miles were flat as the route followed the Madison River.
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I saw a bison grazing over by side of the road.
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Otherwise some nice views. The shoulder was reasonable and while there was a fair amount of traffic, speeds were slow and gave me plenty of room. At 14 miles, I took the small side road up Firehole Canyon.
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There is a harder layer of basalt on top of softer layers. Where the canyon has eroded down the soft layers is Firehole Falls. Once got on top of the hard layer it was relatively flat from there all the way to Old Faithful area.
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At 23 miles I walked around the Fountain Paint Pot area. There were deep colored pools such as above.
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Also the namesake mud pots.
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A few miles later was the Midway Geyser Basin with these colored pools. Shortly before lunch I made it to the Old Faithful complex area. It was surprisingly large area with parking lots, lodges, stores, etc. Almost a mile of cycling to finally reach the Old Faithful geyser itself.
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I was there at 11:45am and next eruption not expected for another 40 minutes.
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So myself and a lot of other people waited.
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Obligatory shot of the eruption that we waited for. After this some lunch and then back on the road. This next stretch climbed more than 1000ft to cross the Continental Divide twice.
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First crossing.
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Second crossing. In this area I saw ~15 cyclists coming the other way without any gear. Looked like some sort of organized ride. From the second crossing, a descent and then down to Yellowstone Lake.
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The Grant Village area was another large complex with campground, visitor center, restaurant and shops. I had a nice dinner before coming back to retire early. Unfortunately, I was awoken a little past 11pm. My spot was #172 and people arrived late for neighboring spot #174. However someone else had decided to take that spot since it appeared vacant and my spot didn’t have a car in the campsite, so they parked in my spot and started to noisily set things up. I awoke and at least pointed them at the next spot to sort things out.
Day Two
It wasn’t as cold as I expected overnight and again above freezing. I packed up and then cycled for a buffet breakfast before setting off.
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Started the day with another Continental Divide crossing. This one had fairly little climbing. After this somewhat level along Lewis Lake.
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Past Lewis Falls at the other side. After this the canyon again appeared as the Lewis River cut through softer layers. However, the road stayed high until last few miles before the South Entrance where there was a good descent of almost 1000ft.
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I was now out of Yellowstone and in small gap before reaching Grand Teton. The Berry Fire had recently shut this road for 10 days and there was information here about the fire.
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We crossed right through some burnt out areas. The information sign on the lookout is shown below.
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It described the effects of the 1988 fires in this area as well as regrowth. Interestingly enough almost exactly 28 years ago (weekend after Labor Day 1988) I also made a (non-cycling) trip to Yellowstone and passed through this recently burned area. I wonder how they will update the signs this time.
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Here was another area of very recent burn.
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A little later I came to Grand Teton Park entrance itself. The road had a nice shoulder in this area and throughout the park.
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I encountered these cyclists at Colter Bay. Self described bicycle journalists had started in Breckenridge and were roughly following the Great Divide northbound and interviewing people they met.

Had a good lunch in Colter Bay before cycling the last miles for the day.
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View of the Tetons.
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Road leaving the park and heading east. I had a hostel room at resort ~8 miles east of Moran Junction.

Posted in USA, Wyoming | Tagged National Parks

West Yellowstone

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-09-06 by mev2016-09-06

Two days cycling brought me to West Yellowstone. Both days with cooler temperatures, but weather forecasts look good from here.

Day One
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Fishermen were getting ready early as I prepared for a cold day of cycling following my rest/rain day.

Sunday had been cold and wet in Ennis. Good time to drop by laundromat and otherwise take it easy in Ennis. Wet weather was forecast to continue Monday morning, but other than periodic showers, Monday was definitely better than Sunday.
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Photo above gave a nice overview of the day. Water in the rumble strip divots and snow up on the higher peaks. The distance was only 38 miles but included 1100 ft of net climb and some headwinds on the second half of the ride.
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At 11 miles was Cameron store which was closed for Labor Day. However, it was still a good spot to shelter from the wind and eat a snack. After that, continued to follow the road as it slowly followed the Madison River.
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There were several boat ramps with access to the river. I saw a number of boats like these. Seemed like one person was guiding the boat with oars while others might stand in the boat with their fishing rods. Stopped briefly at a rest area at 34 miles and then cycled the last bits to a placed named “Driftwater Resort”. It was still overcast and cool (7C or 45F) when I arrived but later in the afternoon the sun came out again and it warmed a few degrees.

Overall Driftwater Resort was a nice overnight. In the evening, the bar and grill opened and I had a large enough pizza that I ate two thirds for dinner and left the rest for breakfast.
Day Two
Overnight frost but bright sunshine had me hopeful it would quickly warm up. Some recent snow on the higher peaks.
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At 2.5 miles the road junction split, though both routes were just about the same distance. This was the other road leading south over Raynolds Pass and briefly through Idaho.

The road I took followed the river and then went via Earthquake Lake and Hebgen Lake. There were multiple signs along the way about the August 17th, 1959 magnitude 7.3 earthquake that hit the area (wikipedia description). Rock slides killed 28 people and blocked the Madison River to create Earthquake Lake. It was interesting understanding more about the story as I cycled past the signs.
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Here is Earthquake Lake. Notice that it had become cloudy and quite a bit cooler, so back to ~2C (35F) for most of this stretch.
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Here was a sign that described Refuge Point. The road had been blocked and survivors made their way here. The mural also shows smokejumper firefighters who parachuted in to help.

After Earthquake Lake, came past the dam for Hebgen Lake (which fortunately held during the earthquake).
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Met a touring cyclist on her way riding from Canon City, CO to Corvallis, OR.
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Here was another view of Hebgen Lake as the worst overcast had cleared and it finally started warming up. Still interesting to see in parts the lake was still steaming earlier as if the water temperature was warmer than the air.

After Hebgen Lake, joined US 191 and cycled the last eight miles into West Yellowstone.
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West Yellowstone is a touristy and somewhat expensive little town. I got a chance to walk around some of the shops including the local bike shop. Also stopped in the Visitor Center where I could look over the maps as next few days are planned out.
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Good topographic view of the area. General plan is numbered on map above (1) West Yellowstone (2) cross into Yellowstone and camp at Yellowstone Lake (3) go south via Teton National Park and Moran, WY (4) cross Togwotee Pass and then over via Dubois, WY. In addition to being a bit hilly, this is somewhat higher elevation so glad I waited just a bit for the worst of the wet to pass through the area.

By the also passed two milestones in the ride to West Yellowstone: (1) passed 5,000km of cycling for this trip and (2) passed south of the 45th meridian – half way from North Pole to equator and also half way from Arctic Circle to the Tropic of Cancer (pretty close to southern tip of Baja).

Posted in Montana, USA | Tagged cold, earthquake, other cyclists

Ennis, fly fishing town

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-09-03 by mev2016-09-03

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Today a nice ride from Whitehall to Ennis. The cold front had come through last night with some gusty winds and rain drops, but overall not much cooler this morning. Whitehall is known for its murals of the Lewis and Clark expedition and I saw a few as I passed through town.

First eight miles were on secondary roads parallel to I-90. After that I turned south and started to see more signs pointed for Yellowstone.
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Next 15 miles were on MT 369 which had a few climbs through the hills. It was an agricultural area and in a few spots, I could smell fresh cut hay. Also passed along a sign for a potato grower.
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These three big tractors came past as I moved off the road to leave plenty of room.
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At fifteen miles I noticed my rear tire being squishy soft again. Looks like one of the inner tire layers has a bit of a tear. Might still be ok in emergency, but decided to swap in my spare tire.
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At 22 miles turned south on US 287. There was a 3-4 foot shoulder that also had a rumble strip. Most of the time, I could ride to right of the rumble strip and in any case traffic was fairly light.
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Harrison had this nice little store and excuse to stop. Decided I would try for lunch in Norris, 11 miles further though. Unfortunately, reaching Norris, the bar only started serving food after 2pm. So back on the road.
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Next 9 miles to McAlister had a fairly large hill. This is a view part way up the hill and looking back.
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What goes up, must come down and nice to see this sign as I reached the top.
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Part way down, I met this cyclist coming the other way. He had started in New Jersey and was getting closer to his end destination of Seattle. I’m far enough off the GDMBR, but now closer to the “Transamerica Trail”, so expect I might see some other East/West cycle tourists here.

At the bottom was McAlister and chance for a late lunch. After that only 6 more miles to Ennis to end a nice day of cycling.
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Ennis has this statue of a fly fisherman on the main intersection and this theme seems play here.
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Several shops where you can buy from a large assortment of flies.
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A fly fishing festival being held over Labor Day weekend.
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A number of large painted fish placed at different places around town.

I booked a room for two nights and plan to take a rest day here. Weather forecast now calls for ~60% chances of rain for both Sunday and Monday. This looks like a fairly arid region and is only 4900ft, so not sure it will be particularly severe here. However, still a nice spot to get a rest day before cycling closer to Yellowstone and higher elevations.

Posted in Montana, USA | Tagged fly fishing, potatoes, tire

Whitehall, just over the hill

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-09-02 by mev2016-09-02

Today a shorter ride as I keep one eye out on the weather forecasts.
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Pretty easy ride today. The paved route, MT 69 is 38 miles from Boulder to Whitehall, but there is a shortcut of 26 miles that goes over the hill rather than around. Only half the route is paved, the rest is gravel. However, there was also construction on MT 69.

Even though not a long distance, I left early to avoid a cold front that was expected to pass through in afternoon with gusty winds and thundershowers.
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After two and a half miles the road turned to gravel. I was warned there was a dog here that liked to give chase, but fortunately didn’t see any signs here. Next several miles climbed on a dusty and washboard road. Most of the grade was gentle but there was a mile of ~6% grade as well.
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A few cattle grates and a few cows as well. They all seemed quite curious. At the six mile mark, crested top of the hill a little over 5600ft. The road continued to be dusty and washboard here so had to carefully pick my path. Several miles later, left the trees and road became much more rocky and tougher to navigate.
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A pickup slowed and asked if this was way to Boulder. In return, I found out where the gravel stopped (at 16 miles). A lot easier cycling after that.
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More descent here and some irrigated agriculture. Last 10 miles were pretty easy on pavement and made it into Whitehall early.
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This town was split a bit between businesses clustered near the interstate (I-90) and those on MT 69 where the railroad tracks. Found a place and relaxed for the afternoon.

I’ve been keeping an eye out on the weather forecasts. After the cold front comes through, a weather alert says, “The National Weather Service in Great Falls has issued a Winter Weather Advisory for elevations above 6000 feet for snow… which is in effect from noon Sunday to noon MDT Monday…” I’ve seen this in the forecasts for several days and hence taken slightly slower pace – in to see if I can cross into Yellowstone after the worst comes through.

Posted in Montana, USA

Boulder, cute little town

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-09-01 by mev2016-09-01

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Today’s ride was a half day to Boulder, MT. A little town with Main Street, flags and yellow ribbons adorning the lamp posts. The Great Divide Route has some notorious tough sections near Helena and Butte, but today I was on an alternative listed as “Boulder Alternative, 6.5 miles longer and includes 11.2 miles of interstate riding. This alternative avoids some of the most challenging terrain along the route” which is fine for me.
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Left this morning and the first 16 miles were on a frontage road along I-15 similar to photo above. A gentle climb, temperatures around 50F (10C) made for a fairly easy ride, first to Clancey and then to Jefferson City. There were hints of a SW wind (headwind) starting to pick up.
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At 16 miles an on-ramp to the interstate. Not a lot of traffic and slightly increased grades and winds, but still a reasonable ride. After five miles cycling on the shoulder, topped out around 5600ft and then descended ~700ft down into Boulder.
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Photo above gives reasonable overview. Boulder is at the far end with a low ridge behind it. One road (MT 69) goes off to the left, and I-15 goes to the right. Over the low ridge is a paved+gravel road that heads further south.
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I was into Boulder close to noon. Now a choice of whether to ride over that hill to continue to Whitehall or find a spot in town. It was a cute town, and some more headwinds helped make my choice.
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Here is part of the Thursday Farmer’s Market.
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Here is city hall.

In the afternoon a quick gusty rain shower came through. Tomorrow we expect a front to come through with cooler temperatures as well as increased chances of rain on Sunday and Monday and cool most of next week. Also one of the reasons for shorter day as figure I’d rather have that weather instability here at lower elevations before going across Yellowstone after that.

Posted in Montana, USA | Tagged cute little town

Helena, two easy days

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-08-31 by mev2016-08-31

Two easy days riding to Helena.
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I was slow getting started from Lincoln. I hadn’t taken a rest day since Banff and thought of taking a day in Lincoln, but in end decided on two easy days instead. The agenda for the first day was to ride over Flesher Pass. Turned out not too difficult as it was only 1600ft higher than Lincoln.
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Eleven miles on the main road before turning to road 279. There was quite a bit of construction traffic, but fortunately the trucks were only going one mile down the road. After that it was a slow steady climb for 9 miles to the summit. My cycle computer rarely said over 6% so it was a case of shifting into low gear and slowly riding up.
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Getting close to the top, here was the view looking back on the road.
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Official summit sign here.

After that a reasonable descent that brought me down into Canyon Creek. The creek was a bit narrow and the road closely followed the creek. Some national forest but also a fair number of vacation cabins here. A little past 30 miles, the canyon opened up and it was more dry landscapes with irrigation. My map had indicated “Canyon Creek Store”
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I was there in time for a late lunch. Inside of the store was cute with a lot of antiques but also food and other items. They also had small RV park/campground. Decided to stop there for the afternoon. It was hazy out, apparently several different fires in the area.
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Two pickups. This scene was along the way the next morning. As best I could tell, they were radio-ing down to some riders on horseback down below who were herding cattle. From here into Helena was a good road that climbed over low ridge and then descended into the Helena Valley. After 13 miles, turned north to more suburban/rural roads on outskirts of Helena.
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Not much later was the city limits itself.
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Overall, two fairly easy days that brought me to Helena. Chance to relax as well as pick a more precise route using the maps I have. I was thinking of US 287, but that has bad reviews so most likely take some of the alternate route on GDMBR.

Posted in Montana, USA | Tagged continental divide, haze

Lincoln

A bicycle ride across the Americas Posted on 2016-08-29 by mev2016-08-29

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Today a nice ride all on pavement. First fifteen miles finished MT 83 and passed picturesque Salmon Lake. Must be fish as I saw several boats out in the water. The last few miles went to junction with MT 200, also known as Clearwater Junction.
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Clerk at the Kwik Stop store told me the bull above was ~50 years old and recently had been listed in an article of the “five most recognized images of Montana.” The clerk also explained a sign for me from yesterday. One of these Adopt a Highway signs had listed “The Boman Family, five griz and one cat”. “griz” refers to University of Montana Grizzlies in Missoula and “cat” refers to Montana State University Bobcats in Bozeman.

The next 24 miles I had also done on my first trip across America on May 30th 1992. I was riding a bit longer then and covered 125.9 miles with 5210 feet of climb that day from Missoula to Helena.
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Photo above gives a good overview of agenda for rest of the day and also showed that the country was starting to open up some with larger views. MT 200 had good shoulders and initially looked like it might be a headwind, but fortunately subsided. After 13 miles I came to small town of Ovando. I had a touring cyclist pass me here. He was traveling from Portland, OR to Yellowstone but was stopping for the day in Ovando.
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I had lunch at Trixi’s, actually an omelet breakfast since they served them until noon. After that more big sky country to ride eleven miles to junction with MT 141. Not much later, I noticed my rear tire was soft. Looks like a hole in the same place as I had in Whitefish again. Looks like a hole has gotten into the outer tire. Patched this up, but if continues again, perhaps swap in my spare tire.
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How many Brahams symphonies do we need?

The last fifteen miles more closely followed the river and had very slight uphill. I was amused to see signs listing “downtown Lincoln”. Lincoln itself has one flashing traffic light – yellow on the main road and red for a cross street – so that must be downtown. Only other thing I’ve known about Lincoln is this is hometown for the Unabomber who had his cabin here. However, haven’t found any plaques or signs for this.
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Not too much trouble to find myself a place to stay. The GDMBR also goes through downtown Lincoln, so will either take this route tomorrow or will go one pass further (Flesher Pass) on likely a two day ride to Helena.

Posted in Montana, USA | Tagged Brahams symphonies, flat tire

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